How do you shoot a Glock?

[TMan]

Okay, I've thrown a lot of money into this Glock for performance parts, and polished the recommended surfaces for a trigger job using Flitz and a Dremel. The trigger is now 3lb pound pull with my gauge.

However, after shooting .357M loads in a Ruger GP100 today, I then switched to the Glock, and I was all over the place. A friend, who is a much better shot than I, put 4 rounds directly in the bullseye, and pulled one i.e. it isn't the gun.

The trigger has a light pull, and then it firms up just before it fires. (Kind of like the Sig 220). However, the light pull does have a lot more resistance than other true double action guns I've shot.

So, how should you learn to shoot a Glock? Should you just try to provide a smooth pull from the begining and carry it through the entire pull, or should you try to remove the take-up, pause, and then apply pressure to fire the gun. I seemed to do better with the latter, but I'm wondering if that is a bad habit to get in to. Incidentally, I'll never use the Glock for self-defense, so I'm just trying to learn how to kill paper.

["DoubleAction"]

TMan; You'll probably find the nature of the Glock, when comparing it to the double/single action triggers, is the fact that it is striker fired with the incorporated Glock "Safety Trigger" mechanism.
I fired a few Glocks, not many, and find them to be a little different from shooting my own pistols. I would not hesitate to pick one up and shoot it, I'm just a little hesitant about getting into something that requires new investments for magazines and gunleather.
I've been told that a pistolsmith I once had business with, is now doing 2 lb. triggers on the Glocks.

["DoubleAction"]

TMan said:

Okay, I've thrown a lot of money into this Glock for performance parts, and polished the recommended surfaces for a trigger job using Flitz and a Dremel. The trigger is now 3lb pound pull with my gauge.

However, after shooting .357M loads in a Ruger GP100 today, I then switched to the Glock, and I was all over the place. A friend, who is a much better shot than I, put 4 rounds directly in the bullseye, and pulled one i.e. it isn't the gun.

The trigger has a light pull, and then it firms up just before it fires. (Kind of like the Sig 220). However, the light pull does have a lot more resistance than other true double action guns I've shot.

So, how should you learn to shoot a Glock? Should you just try to provide a smooth pull from the begining and carry it through the entire pull, or should you try to remove the take-up, pause, and then apply pressure to fire the gun. I seemed to do better with the latter, but I'm wondering if that is a bad habit to get in to. Incidentally, I'll never use the Glock for self-defense, so I'm just trying to learn how to kill paper.

TMan; The Glock, being the Police Combat Pistol that it is, and the fact that you have the release down to 3 lbs., it should be easy to lightly tap the trigger with the pad of the finger, without squeeezing. You can tap it or lightly bump the trigger to release it. I would not be concerned with applying pressure, this will cause you to pull your shots during recoil. The Glock is designed to fire rounds in rapid succession. The trigger should be free to reset itself without your finger following; Squeezing and applying constant pressure on the trigger will retard the mechanical functions of the pistol.

[Callahan]

Tman:

Do you think you are focusing too hard on trigger pull rather than keeping the sights on target? Myself, I can pretty much pattern any pistol by firing a mag or two and determining where it fires and then making adjustments, either in where on the target I aim or actually adjusting the sights. I would think all your shots are in a certain area. If they are not, it may be the pistol. Do you fire any particular pistol well?

Callahan

[Docglock]

Tman,
For what it's worth.. after my first shot, I don't release the trigger all the way back. It resets in very short forward travel and your right at the break for the next shot. I also do find that if I don't shoot my Glock over a long period of time, it takes a few mags to get the feel back, especially if I have been shooting my revolvers. Try this...Make sure your pistol is safe and clear. Dry fire and hold the trigger all the way back.... While still holding it back work the slide back about 3/4 of an inch to reset... Now very slowly start to release the trigger, you'll hear and feel the trigger reset..... don't let it move any further forward. Now squeeze ever so slightly.....click. Now when you try this live take some time getting used to it. You may pop off 2 or 3 very fast not really meaning to. Once you get used to it though.... pretty sweet.

Docglock ;D

["DoubleAction"]

Welcome back Doc. ;D

[Docglock]

Thanks D/A

Doc ;D

[TMan]

Callahan said:

Tman:
... Do you fire any particular pistol well?
Callahan

Well, it is all relative. There are certainly some that I shoot better than others. Then there are those that I've always sucked at. I used to think that the more powerful the recoil, the more that I would flinch, and therefore be less accurate. However, I've found it doesn't make much difference. Some of the best sessions I've had were with a .357M revolver. Then of course there was today with a friend looking over my shoulder and he saw me flinch with the .22LR. However, it was shooting my Ruger after shooting his Browning Buckmark with CCI Stingers. I'd never shot those before and the brilliant white blast was a sight to behold. So I was a little jumpy.

DocGlock, thanks for the info, and I'll have to try that. However, it won't be this year - I'm done at the range for the year. I'm also done buying for the year - but I confess, I gave Santa a little help this year.

["DoubleAction"]

After reading Doc's Response I can relate to the trigger reset from the Sigs. I usually let off on the Sig Trigger just enough for the reset click, which I can feel on the pad of my finger while the trigger is return is also controlled by the forward movement of my finger. As long as my finger travels no further than necessary to reset the trigger, on the trigger return, all subsequent shots will have far less trigger takeup which decreases time between rounds fired.

[tptplayer]

When shooting slowly, I take up the trigger before the final instant of firing on a Glock. When shooting for speed, I don't think about whether I am doing that. But Brian Enos suggests a steady trigger pull throughout. www.brianenos.com/forums/

Likewise, many people use the short forward travel suggested by DocGlock and DA. However, Todd Jarrett recommends bringing the finger forward off of the trigger on each shot.

I guess it shows that there is more than one good way to do these things. We all just need to spend enough time on the range to discover which (good) way is best for us.

["DoubleAction"]

tptplayer said:

When shooting slowly, I take up the trigger before the final instant of firing on a Glock. When shooting for speed, I don't think about whether I am doing that. But Brian Enos suggests a steady trigger pull throughout. www.brianenos.com/forums/

Likewise, many people use the short forward travel suggested by DocGlock and DA. However, Todd Jarrett recommends bringing the finger forward off of the trigger on each shot.

Tptplayer; With the 1911, and it's short takeup and almost zero overtravel in some pistols, all it takes is a slight tap on the trigger. My finger always comes off the trigger, but on some with the stronger return springs, the trigger will follow the pad of the finger as it resets. I do not allow my finger to travel forward any further than necessary in order for the trigger to reset.By doing this, I try to maintain a short takeup on the longer trigger strokes of the Sigs. My triggers on the 1911s are already set for minimum takeup and overtravel.
Double Action Revolver triggers are much different because of their mechanics in providing for the cylinder rotation and cocking of the hammer.

[tptplayer]

I am sure that most shooters are like you in shooting handguns, especially the fine triggers on the 1911. That is why it is notable that an exceptional shooter like Todd Jarrett brings his finger completely off the trigger each time. If you happen to have access to Shooting Gallery, he did an interesting demonstation of this and other aspects of high speed shooting on December 2nd of this year.

I am aware that the Glock has the short trigger return but haven't found that benefical for me. For me when shooting for speed in competition, I shoot much more accurately if I make each trigger stroke exactly the same.

My only truly double action trigger is my S&W 625 that I shoot in ICORE. It is greatly benefited by an excellent trigger job done by Dick DiVittorio. Again with more difficult shots, I carefully stage the trigger but pull steadily when shooting for speed.

Trigger control is a very important fundamental to good shooting and to me at least, an interesting topic of discussion.

["DoubleAction"]

Tptplayer; About ten years ago I was watching Jerry Miculek rapid fire a double action S&W revolver, it was the first time I saw him. His reloading with moonclips also amazed me. Prior to Miculek I had watched John Pride alot, in some of his PPC matches. These guys are incredible, but Miculek's speed is far from the relm of anyone's imagination with a revolver. I bought some of Miculek's grips from him when he was at the '99 shot show but they are far too small for my own hands. Too bad; I thought they would help me shoot a little faster. ;D

[Callahan]

TMan said:

Well, it is all relative. There are certainly some that I shoot better than others. Then there are those that I've always sucked at. I used to think that the more powerful the recoil, the more that I would flinch, and therefore be less accurate. However, I've found it doesn't make much difference. Some of the best sessions I've had were with a .357M revolver. Then of course there was today with a friend looking over my shoulder and he saw me flinch with the .22LR. quote]

TMan: I'm just the opposite. I have myself convinced I can't shoot revolvers to "save my life" -- even single-action. Probably did best with the S&W 500 (9s). Time before that I was all over the place with a Ruger 101.

[tptplayer]

I also stand in awe of Jerry Miculek. My favorite record of his is:

"The third record established at the Mossy Oak Outlet Center range, in front of several hundred spectators, saw Miculek fire six shots, reload, and fire six more shots on a single target in 2.99 seconds. A Smith & Wesson Model 625, chambered for .45 ACP and using full moon clips was utilized for the 12 shot record."

That's my revolver and on a bad day, I can spend that much time on the reload alone.


firearms.smith-wesson.com/contentbuilder/layout.php3?contentPath=content/00/01/32/32/75/userdirectory67.content

["DoubleAction"]

Jerry Miculek has become the driving force behind Smith & Wesson's Performance Center line of Combat Revolvers. The eight round .357 magnum, on the L- Frame 627, was another. My brother has one of these revolvers and it shoots sweet; I still prefer my model 27 though.
firearms.smith-wesson.com/contentbuilder/layout.php3?contentPath=content/00/01/32/32/75/userdirectory67.content

[Adam Dieffenbach]

How do you shoot a Glock? I recommend using an AK47 with a scope. Set the Glock about 50 yards downrange and open fire. Good times will ensue.



-deef

[TMan]

DoubleAction said:

I still prefer my model 27 though.

Okay, why? When I found out that my chances for getting a new Colt Python Elite were nil, I went for the 627. Foolishly, I shot .38 Specials in it and had a heck of a job cleaning it. Since I finally got it sparkling clean, I now only shoot .357 Magnum through it. The cylinder still gets a little dirty, but not the big build up that I had with the .38 Specials.

One of the thoughtful things that S&W did was to include the rubber Hogue grips. I've never put them on, as I like the good looking woods grips. I only shoot 50 rounds/session, and I confess - I shoot it in SA mode.

I'm moving on... my favorite numbers now are: 1873.

["DoubleAction"]

TMan; I can understand your frustration, I get that way myself sometimes. I prefer my 27 for several reasons; One reason is the smooth, light, single stacking trigger; This 27 has to be the smoothest trigger I have ever felt on a double action revolver. Another reason is it's smooth recoil and balance; Some carbon steel guns absorb the recoil much better than their stainless counterparts, depending on the gun.
I always remove the cylinders from the frame, use over size brushes to clean the charge holes ( .40 for the .357 ), and have a variety of cleaning solvents that I apply. With the stainless, I will not hesitate to use the Lead Away cloths, it is less fragile as far as it's finish, and the Lead Away is non abraisive. I've cleaned my Brother's 627 "8 Times" Performance Center revolver on several occaissions, returning it to like new condition everytime. I usually do not shoot the 38 specials through my .357 magnum revolvers, but I do on occassions. A small patch cut from a Lead Away cloth, on a jag, should clean up the charge holes to new condition. I use the Lead Away after I've already throughly cleaned the gun using Hoppes #9. Since trying the 38 Specials in the 27, I'll be shooting those more often than I have before. Using 38 Specials in the heavy S&W N-Frame 27 or 627 is an overkill in absorbing any recoil; I like it for the fun of faster follow up shots. I might also mention that I use the 125 gr. jacketed hollow point in 38 special, for most, but I have used fmj through my 4" Python in 38 Special.
TMan; You will probably notice than many double action revolvers have a much lighter single action break than those of single action revolvers.
I am most fond of the .500" long spur hammer on the S&W Revolvers, my Six inch Python also has a long spur Hammer, much better for single action shooting with the DA revolvers.

[MLB]

Adam said:

I recommend using an AK47 with a scope.

;D ;D ;D