CZ-83 - Includes Detailed Strip of Frame

[TMan]

Where are my socks? This $200 gun from AIM Surplus really knocked my socks off today. I shot 45 rounds (buddy shot 5), and I only had 3 rounds that weren't in the bullseye.

AIM said the condition was Good+ and mechanically excellent. I think the Good+ is a little stretch. I'd say the one that I had was fair. I was told today that it showed a lot of character.

I always felt that the Beretta Tomcat was uncomfortable to shoot, as is the Kel-Tec, but this thing is a dream to shoot. You would think you where shooting a 22LR.

It is a blowback design, which may account for some of its shootability.

In case you haven't figured it out, this is a pistol that I would highly recommend.

[5ontarget]

I like my 82's. (probably why there are 2 in the safe :? )
Similar thoughts and experiences with the more generous chamering of 9x18.

I paid about $200 for each of mine too.

These aren't as small as the Tomcat. With the larger and steel frame, the recoil is almost not there.

[TMan]

This calibers drive me crazy (short drive). The 9x18 is called the Makarov - right? I've never shot one. So with the .380 being 9x17 and the 9mm Luger being 9x19 then the 9x18 is in between.

Ammoguide.com doesn't give a nominal for the 9x18, but it appears to be just a little more muzzle energy than the 380.

Although the 7.65 Browning (.32ACP) is very tame in the CZ-83, I find the 7.72x25 in the CZ-52 quite uncomfortable.

According to MidwayUSA, there is quite a bit of the Makarov ammo that is available.

I'd like to shoot one some time if I ever see someone at the range that has one.

[TA]

I have toyed with getting a CZ-82 for quite a while. I will just wait until they dry up and wished I did.

[MLB]

Sort of like I did with the Makarov. I could have had one for $125. Big dummy.

["DoubleAction"]

Georgia Arms loads a 9x18 Makarov, using new starline cases, with 95 gr. Gold Dot HP bullets, and it shows 210 ft. lbs. of energy with 1000. fps.

[TMan]

This pistol had a very positive sear/hammer engagement i.e. when you were in SA mode with the hammer cocked, when you pulled the trigger, you could see the hammer move backwards a lot before it fell.

Having completely disassembled a lot of pistols, I rushed in where angels fear to tread:

I basically went at it like I would have a 1911. I removed the grips and then the safety. I then removed the main spring plug/pin and the main spring. While driving out the pin that hold the ejector, the pin that holds the sear decided that it probably needed to come out on its own without being beaten on. Now basically everything has gone wild inside: I can't get the sear out and I cant get the hammer out even though the hammer pin fell out on its own too.

Think I'll go buy something else to shoot - I think this is K.O.'ed.

[MLB]

Aw, come on. It's just a big jigsaw puzzle. Especially for you. You've done dozens I'm sure.

There's an excellent exploded view for the 83 in the pdf manual below:
stevespages.com/pdf/cz83.pdf

[5ontarget]

THAT's why I haven't addressed the trigger problems. I looked at the exploded diagram, and decided I didn't want to tackle that nightmare. Waaaayy over my patience and skill level.

If you get it apart, and start putting it back together, you could make a how-to reassemble (and perhaps a how to not disassemble) guide and make some cash selling it. Or post it for the thousands of Cz82-83 owners that want to adjust their triggers, etc. Many people have asked for a guide on how to detail strip these pistols.

I wish you luck!!

[TMan]

I'll need luck.

MLB, I have the manual, which is what is in that PDF, but it doesn't go into the detailed strip - of course.

I've got some other irons in the fire right now, which is why I haven't gotten back to it. However, I have some other gun projects to do and I have this rule to not have more than one apart at a time (except for normal cleaning).

I still haven't figured out how to get the sear and hammer out. I've pulled the pins, but they appear to be jammed in there. I may have to figure out how to take out the trigger bar before they come out.

Previously, the worst thing I worked on was another CZ - the 52. I have two of them: one that I worked on, and one that I threw into a box in the closet. I only paid $98 out the door for each of them so I can't complain. The CZ-83...

Waiting in the wings is the TOZ-35, which I bought used and needs the wood refinished. I want to do that over the Christmas holidays.

As I type this it is half-time on Thanksgiving for the Cowboys' game. Why is it raining there and not here? I'm only 20 miles away from the stadium. They were just showing close-ups of some of the cheerleaders. Guess it is good that it is raining - some of the guys there watching probably need a cold shower.

[TMan]

Well, I finally got the thing disassembled. I had to remove the trigger bar in order to remove the sear and hammer. The hammer is a little weird. I'm going to lightly stone the sear to change the engagement angle slightly so the engagement is less positive. Then come the real trick - getting it all back together again.

Should I add instructions on how to disassemble/assemble to this thread or put it somewhere else like the Ammunition, Cleaning,... section?

Modified to add: I got an e-mail from the NRA this morning and they mentioned their disassembly manuals. I went to their web-site and looked at the table of contents. They list the CZ-83. That is good news in case I can't get this back together.

www.nrastore.com/nra/Product.aspx?productid=BK%2001617

[5ontarget]

I say post them here.


Talk about timing with the NRA email!!

[TMan]

Since I specified and paid for 2nd day mail, the manuals arrived today. I hurriedly turned to the CZ-53 pages.
&^%$^(*@!

They tell you how to field-strip the pistol and how to remove the firing pin.

They do give a detailed disassembly on the 1911. Whoopie!!! Like it isn't available anywhere else.

Also, the books are available from Buy.Com and Amazon.com for less money. Something about a fool and their money comes to mind.

Looks like I'm on my own here.

[TMan]

My CZ-83 had a decent trigger, but was very positive i.e. with the hammer cocked, as I applied pressure to the trigger I
could see the hammer moving backward considerably. I decided to stone the trigger slightly to make it less positive.
I was conservative because I don't know of the availability of parts for this thing.

I attempted to remove the sear without totally disassembling the frame. I failed. I found it necessary to remove
everything. I'll first give disassembly instruction how I think it would be easiest to do and not the convoluted method
that I used. The reassemble instruction were written and revised as I reassembled the pistol.

Disassemble the CZ-83

I don't give any details here on how to disassemble the slide. If you can't do that without instructions, then you
should not attempt to disassemble the frame - you are over your head. I also assume that you have field-stripped the
pistol. For the most part you won't need to use a hammer to drive out pins. I'll use the term "push" or "press" when
you should be able to remove the pins without a hammer, and the term "drive" if you need a hammer.

All numbers refer to the part explosion in the owners manual, which is available online at CZ-USA.COM

1) Remove the grips by removing the two screws, pulling them out at the bottom and sliding them out from under the
safety lever.

2) Remove the Safety (34) by driving out the Safety Pin (37).

3) Push out Pin (39) and remove the Trigger Guard (38).

4) Apply pressure (I had to apply quite a bit) to the Main Spring Plug (33) and push out the Pin (6). Control the
removal of the Main Spring Plug or you may eventually find it hiding inside the reel for the air hose next to the air
compressor. (Wonder why I know these things?) Remove the Main Spring (32).

5) Push out the Hammer Pin (27) and Pull out the Left and Right Pins (23). Lift out the Disconnector (19).

6) Partially drive out Trigger Guard Pin (40) from the left side and pull out the Slide Stop Spring (42). The Slide
Stop (41) Should now fall out.

7) Drive out the Pin (6) that is holding the Ejector (20) and Automatic Safety (21). These two parts should now lift
out.

8) Press out Pin (16) that is holding the Trigger (14) in the frame. Lower the trigger and push out the Trigger Bar
Pin (18) that holds the Trigger and Trigger Spring (15)

9) Remove the Trigger Bar by removing it from the rear downward. Wiggle, wiggle, wiggle.

10) You should now be able to remove the Hammer (26) along with the Hammer Lever (28) from the top and the Sear (29)
from the bottom. Note that part of the sear is on the outside of the frame.



To reassemble the CZ-83:


1) Insert the Main Spring Strut (31) into the frame from the top in the position shown in the diagram

2) Insert the Hammer Lever (28) into the Hammer (26)

3) Insert the assembly into the frame from the top.

4) Insert the Sear (29) through the magazine well. Push the Hammer forward to facilitate the positioning of the sear.
Note that part of the Sear will be outside of the frame.

5) Push the Pin (23) through the side of the frame and into the Sear.

6) Retract the Pin slightly and insert the Sear Spring (30). The little tit on the spring goes to the inside of the gun.

7) Re-seat the pin and place a piece of tape over it to hold it in place (or you will be sorry).

8) Position the Hammer and insert the Hammer Pin (27) from the right side of the frame (the little tit on the pin is on
the left side of the gun i.e. insert it first from the right side. Put a piece of tape over this pin too.

9) Insert the Main Spring (31) from the base and position it over the Main Spring Strut.

10) Place the Main Spring Plug (33) over the Main Spring

12) Ensure the Main Spring Strut is properly positioned in the hammer and that the hammer will move freely (you may have
to trip the sear to move it forward.

13) Apply pressure to the Main Spring Plug and insert the Pin (6). Note: this can be difficult. I found it a little
easier to insert a Lyman Punch that was the same size as the pin while applying pressure to the plug against the sharp
corner of the vise. Then while applying pressure to the plug retract the punch and replace it with the pin. Be careful
when working with the plug that it doesn't go into orbit. You should not need a hammer to insert the pin.

14) The next thing to be installed is the Trigger Bar (17) it is installed in the position shown from the bottom through
the magazine well.

15) With the trigger bar in place, it needs to be positioned with the front edge hanging down so you can install the
trigger.

16) You need to install the Trigger Spring (15) into the trigger bar. The diagram doesn't show the spring in the proper
position. Fortunately, the hole in the trigger bar is offset so the spring can only go one way. It is necessary to
create a slave pin in order hold the spring into the trigger bar before putting on the trigger. It must be no wider than
the trigger bar because the trigger must go over it. I used a section of brazing rod and cut it to length. Since it
was slightly smaller than the holes in the trigger bar, I put grease on both ends to hold it.

When you insert the trigger bar into the frame, you position it from the bottom of the frame with the front (trigger
part) first, which has the spring and slave pin. The hammer must be forward i.e. not cocked and the trigger bar has to
slip up underneath the hammer lever.

17) Position the Trigger (14) and insert the Trigger Bar Pin (18) pushing out the slave pin

18) From the left side of the pistol insert the Trigger Pin (16) after lining up the holes in the frame with the holes
in the trigger. A flashlight on the underside of the pistol may help in doing the initial line up. Because of the spring
tension this can be a little tricky to get in. It took me about 10 minutes. At this point the trigger bar will hit the
Trigger Bar Disconnector (24) because the Disconnector (19) is not yet in place and working.

19) The next thing to go in is the Ejector (20) and Automatic Safety (21). Since this provides the anchor for the sear
spring, it is easiest to make a slave pin to hold the automatic safety in the ejector while you insert it and press it
down to insert the Pin (6). Note that this pin has a rather tight fit, and you will need a hammer to drive it into
place. Take a small punch and insert it into the hole in the top of the ejector to push the anchor of the sear spring into place.

20) Put some grease on the Slide Stop (41) to hold it in place. Insert the Slide Stop Spring (42) into the slide stop.
Position the slide stop so there isn't any tension on the spring and then drive the Trigger Guard Pin (40) in to hold it
in place.

21) Insert the Disconnector (19) in the direction shown in the diagram, and then insert the Pin (23) in place.

22) Remove the tape that you had holding Pin (23) on the left hand of the frame.

23) Put the Safety (34) in place (if you have difficulty, it means you have it upside-down, but don't ask me how I know
that), and secure it with the Safety Pin (37) by tapping it into place.

24) Replace the Trigger Guard (38) and secure with Pin (39). There shouldn't be any reason to use a hammer.

25) Replace the grips by sliding them under the safety lever and secure with the grip screws.

26) Perform normal safety checks.

27) At the range put in a snap cap and follow it with a live round. Fire the gun and ensure that the hammer doesn't
follow the slide.

28) Pour yourself a good stiff drink - you deserved it.

[5ontarget]

Tman, you are the man! That looks like it was an exercise of patience more than gunsmithing. You forgot to mention how the trigger is now!!

[TMan]

5OT, it is improved, and is moving backward about 1/3 of what it was moving before. If I ever find my trigger gage I'll measure it, but that won't tell too much about the operation because I didn't measure it when I started.

The trigger felt good when I started, but the hammer moved back so much that I decided that I wanted to do something about it.

Next to go on the operating table is the Springfield XD. I got the Springer Precision kit, but I'm worried because it says on the envelope "This product is intended to be installed and safety checked by a professional gunsmith familiar with the operation of firearms. DO NOT attempt to install this product yourself."

[MLB]

Excellent post TMan. Thanks for all of the time you put into it.

[TMan]

No cigar!!!

I took the gun to the range and to my dismay, the hammer followed the slide. Pulling back the hammer to cock it and then pulling the trigger showed that the engagement was still quite positive. Since I very lightly had stoned the surfaces, I had doubts that I could have screwed it up that badly.

Just cocking it quickly could sometimes cause it to fail without actually firing the pistol too.

I found out what the hole in the top of the ejector is there for: to put a punch in and move the anchor of the sear spring into place.

Of course I had to take the ejector out to figure out what was going on. Then after putting the spring back into place and driving the pin back in, I found the sear pin on the floor. Time to drive the pin back out, put the sear pin and spring back into place, this time apply tape to it, and put it all back together again. It is bad when you can't follow instructions; it is worse when you can't follow your own instructions.