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Post by Callahan on Mar 27, 2004 15:53:57 GMT -5
Cleaning question: Does solvent leave a residue in the cleaning rag?
In other words, do you try to keep one rag for just oiling and wiping down and a different one for solvent or does the solvent just dissipate as it dries and you can use the same rag?
I try to keep the two separate, but I'm not sure I'm always successful.
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Post by "DoubleAction" on Mar 27, 2004 17:23:21 GMT -5
Callahan; I always use the disposible shop towels that I buy from the automotive stores for cleaning up the solvent.I also use plenty of Q-Tips for the tighter areas, and a oil rag after cleaning is complete. For general wiping down, for handling, I keep a few clean silicone cloths. Using dirty rags for wipe down will scratch the finish. I have one room, and one large table that I use to keep these collections of cloths and rags on, it's no longer within my control. I also keep cotton balls on hand.
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Post by Callahan on Mar 27, 2004 17:59:48 GMT -5
Ok, so that's as I suspected. Thanks. Since the shop towels Wal-Mart sells are not all that absorbant I may get polishing rags instead. Good idea about the Q-Tips. My wife always has them on hand.
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Post by MLB on Mar 27, 2004 21:14:58 GMT -5
Q-tips are just about perfect for the bore of a .22. Puff up the ends a bit and they work better than a patch. Cheaper too.
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Post by MitchHankSauer on Mar 28, 2004 10:58:38 GMT -5
My brother is tryng out the MPro7 stuff, so far he likes it and says it really is a good cleaner and that it gets the gunk out much easier than the stuff he was using before. I'm gonna have to try it and confirm that.
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Post by Callahan on Mar 28, 2004 19:20:07 GMT -5
I finally got around to using that Militec lubricant sample I got from their Web site months ago. Directions say that right after using you have to heat the weapon by firing it, or put it in the sun, or use a hair dryer to activate the product. Since it was nighttime and everyone was asleep I cranked up the oven to 150 degrees and then shut it off. Once it sat for about 5-10 minutes I put the pistol in, minus the plastic grips. Worked pretty good.
First time I ever baked a firearm... ;D
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Post by XavierBreath on Mar 29, 2004 7:30:40 GMT -5
I keep a piece of chamois (SP?) for wiping down my guns. After a few months it becomes oily and smudgy, then it becomes the dirty gun wipe after I buy another. On the third chamois buy I have three, one for clean guns, one for dirty guns, and one for gun innards.
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Post by Callahan on Mar 29, 2004 11:43:36 GMT -5
Yeah, I need to toss out all these old rags that are cross-contaminating and start over...
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Post by Seraph on Mar 29, 2004 18:14:53 GMT -5
I wear a lot of black T-shirts. They are a staple for me, so I always have a few that are worn-out looking enough that I don't wear them. After they have been washed enough, there is d**n little lint that will come off them, and if any did, it would be black and wouldn't show on a parkerized(my fave) gun. This solves my gripe about most light colored gun cloths, the best of which, will leave a little speck of lint between lines of checkering or between slide serrations, etc.
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Post by Callahan on Mar 29, 2004 18:24:40 GMT -5
Oh great. I threw out 3-4 worn-out black T-shirts a couple of weeks ago!
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Post by papercutter on Mar 29, 2004 19:22:31 GMT -5
I have a few quick & dirty tricks I saw at the range ,,,,,, some Swat guys use carburetor cleaner spray or brake clean spray on patches or just spray down the bore. One guy with 45 shooting lead wad cutters ,, had a bit of leading ,, say the first third of the barrel ,,, he cleaned it with two 3/8 wooden dowles and some stainless scouring pad ( the type that's like ribbon / lathe cuttings) used in commercial restaurants,, he wadded it up in the bore, held a dowle in both ends of the barrel with pressure on scouring pad,, moving it slowly up & down. About a minute it was clean. The ribbon more or less scrapes the lead, unlike a brush that scrubs the surface.
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Post by 9mm on Mar 29, 2004 19:24:15 GMT -5
Those old t-shirts make the best cleaning rags. The 20 year old Fruit-of-the-Loom briefs in the back of your drawer also make good rags (after a washing with a liberal amount of bleach . I have an oil-drum sized bag of cut up t-shirts and underwear I use to clean the car/mower/bike/guns etc. My buddy used to run a t-shirt printing company. I got lots of rejects. Best yet? A pitch to the DARE office that started with "Got Drugs?"
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Post by TMan on Mar 31, 2004 21:37:44 GMT -5
On the old T-shirts. Make sure your wife didn't use fabric softner on them. If she did, wash them again without it. I usually go through a couple of wash cycles without fabric softner before they become rags.
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Post by "DoubleAction" on Apr 1, 2004 18:05:51 GMT -5
I have a few quick & dirty tricks I saw at the range ,,,,,, some Swat guys use carburetor cleaner spray or brake clean spray on patches or just spray down the bore. One guy with 45 shooting lead wad cutters ,, had a bit of leading ,, say the first third of the barrel ,,, he cleaned it with two 3/8 wooden dowles and some stainless scouring pad ( the type that's like ribbon / lathe cuttings) used in commercial restaurants,, he wadded it up in the bore, held a dowle in both ends of the barrel with pressure on scouring pad,, moving it slowly up & down. About a minute it was clean. The ribbon more or less scrapes the lead, unlike a brush that scrubs the surface. I once shot alot of lead round nose and lead wadcutter bullets through my 1911s; I used the copper mesh scouring pads that I wrapped around bore brushes, I also used, and continue to use .50 caliber black powder brushes. Brake cleaner or Carb cleaner, such as Gum Out, will help but solvent resistant gloves should be worn ( they will protect against the lead also ).
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Post by tptplayer on Apr 1, 2004 18:36:09 GMT -5
What is your opinion about shooting lead wadcutters from a .45 revolver? Is it OK or is it too hard to clean out?
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Post by "DoubleAction" on Apr 2, 2004 18:23:40 GMT -5
I've shot the lead through my .44 and 357 magnums, but not my .45 Colt. Lead wears less on the rifling of the bore, as opposed to copper jacketed bullets, and the lead wadcutters are much milder in recoil. If you do not mind the clean up and health exposure, the lead wadcutters work fine for target practice.
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Post by papercutter on Apr 3, 2004 10:58:39 GMT -5
It seems all lead bullets need to be fired a low velocities or have a big lube groove. You normally get into trouble you first batch of home cast.
Hard cast will go up over 1000 fps with lube ,,, but most .45 lead cast wad cutter best stay under 800 fps . If you can put marks in the with your finger nail or they bend when dropped from the bench, load them slow.
Years ago I had so much leading from home cast / non lubed .45 , they would keyhole (cut a perfect hole flying sideways) at 50ft
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Post by KrustyBurger on Apr 4, 2004 12:25:33 GMT -5
Use the brake cleaners or industrial solvents outdoors or you'll get the whirlies & start "thinking" about as well as Ted Kennedy, lol. I use Hoppes silicone cloths (K-Mart $3-4) for the last wipe down, after the patches & scrap cloths. They'll last for years. If it's swampy humid, I'll coat with Corrosion X or Inhibitor VCI.
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Post by off2workIgo on May 22, 2004 11:25:40 GMT -5
Here is another little trick that I use to clean my revolver. For cleaning lead and powder in those hard to reach spots (push on the ejector rod and look underneath) I bought a cheap battery powered (electric) toothbrush. It cuts down on some of the "elbow grease". off2work
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Post by "DoubleAction" on May 22, 2004 15:30:27 GMT -5
Thanks offtowork; Glad to see you made it to the forum.
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