Cylinder/Barrel Alignment problem ?

[TMan]

I've got a .22LR revolver that fouls very quickly. It gets lead in the forcing cone and in the barrel. It also get fouling in the cylinders, which make it difficult to reload.

I'm wondering if perhaps the cylinder and barrel aren't aligned properly. I tried shinning light into the gap between the back of the cylinder and the frame, but I can't see enough in the barrel to tell.

I know Brownell's sells "range rods", which apparently will tell you if it is off, but I'm wondering if there is a cheaper way?

I'm not wild about the thought of sending the revolver back to the factory and have them return it with "no trouble found". However, it is still under warranty.

When they aren't in alignment, how do you fix it?

["DoubleAction"]

TMan; If the cylinder is out of timing you should have it corrected under the warranty. Setting the timing on a revolver involves several things, including those rotating lugs you see on the star wheel. If you try to do this yourself you will void any warranty offered from factory service. Obtain a list of those in your area which offers factory service by contacting the manufacturer or referring to your factory manuel.

[TMan]

Okay, but how do I tell if it is out of time? Is the fact that it keeps fouling enough?

Oh, and by the way - it is a SAA replica

["DoubleAction"]

TMan; First, You should remove the cylinder from the frame to make extra sure there are no cartridges in the cylinder. Replace the empty cylinder into the frame. Next; After you are absolutely sure, without a doubt, that the gun is unloaded, Cock the hammer all the way to the rear. While the hammer is cocked, check any play in the cylinder. While the hammer is still cocked, slowly lower the hammer while checking the cylinder play as the hammer is being lowered. Do this to every cylinder in order to check any free play in the cylinder lock up.
To check the centering of the cylinder (Chamber) to that of the barrel's forcing cone, cock the hammer all the way to the rear, and using a flash light between the rear of the cylinder and the frame. Looking down the unloaded barrel, the firing pin hole should be dead center with the bore. Do this to every cylinder.
Although the bore might be dead center with the firing pin when the hammer is cocked, if the cylinder has any play between the time the hammer falls and the primer ignites, the alignment of the bore with the chambers can be affected.
What kind of ammunition are you using ?

[TMan]

Well, a couple of problems:

1) The cylinder to frame fit is so tight that not enough light gets into it that I can see down the barrel.

2) It has a frame mounted firing pin. Do you need a special tool to remove it? If I remove it, will I void the warranty?

I was using Winchester ammo, which is what I usually use in the revolvers. Well, actually I think I used Federal the first time. I only use the CCI Mini-Mags on the semi-autos, which I don't shoot this time of year. (It's hot, I wear short-sleeve shirts and don't like blisters from the hot brass).

Incidentally, at the local gunsmith's today, I picked up some reloaded .223 soft-point ammo, which is done by a local re-loader. It was $20 for 100 rounds. It looks really good. Will give it to my shooting buddy when he returns from vacation (he lets me shoot his rifle).

["DoubleAction"]

TMan; You might can tell something from inspecting the fouled rings on the cylinder face. Try using the CCI Mini Mags in the revolver and see how they work. Some rimfires are known for getting fouled rather early in a stage of shooting.
If you plan on sending the gun in for warranty work with tool marks on it, they will void your warranty in some cases.
I have one S&W that has made two trips back to the factory under the warranty since having a Weigand trigger job. The trigger is poished and they still didn't say anything. The problem had nothing to do with Jack's work, of course.

[TMan]

Well DA, you were right again. I put 100 rounds of the CCI Mini-Mag through it without a problem. Whereas before the accuracy really got bad after shooting for awhile, this time it actually improved (me getting used to the sights). Also, before I was getting slits on the target, this time I was getting clean holes.

["DoubleAction"]

TMan; I use nothing but CCI Mini Mags, unless I feel like splurging with the Federal Gold Match. Mini Mags also work good in providing extra energy for cycling bolts on some semi-auto rifles.
Seems like both of us have had a recent problem with ammuntion, where we thought the gun might be at fault.

[TMan]

DA, I once owned a Ruger 22/45, which I hated. I'd used Federal and Winchester ammo in it, and had a lot of jams. It wasn't as bad as my PPK/s, but a least once every two magazines it would jam. The last straw was when it bent one of the casings and I had a hard time pulling the bolt back. I remember I paid $200 for it and sold it for $150. Later I found out about the CCI Mini-Mags, and felt bad that I'd cursed the gun. Oh, assembly/disassembly was a nightmare too because I just tried to follow the instructions in the book, and didn't understand what I was doing and how it worked.

I've used both the Winchester and Federal in the Heritage revolver and never had a fouling problem. Maybe because its tolerances aren't as tight. Since I got it back from the factory, I still think the Heritage was the best gun I ever bought for the money.

The CCI Mini-Mags certainly have much more energy. I've never tried them in the Jennings, and I don't think I will. ;D