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Post by TMan on Dec 3, 2005 19:25:54 GMT -5
WARNING:
I had problems with a Henry Survival Rifle not ejecting (not using CCI Mini-Mags incidentally). This is basically an AR-7. I noticed that the receiver was rather dirty. Ah, quick fix: spray it out with Tetra Gun Action Blaster.
After a liberal spraying I found that the bolt now worked much easier. d**n I'm good. Good for nothing that is. I then noticed gray crap all over my hands. Looking at the receiver was a horrifying experience. That is where the gray was coming from. It looked like it was made out of plastic and was melting.
I looked into the receiver where the bolt was, and noticed the same thing happening inside the receiver. Oh crap. That smooth moving bolt didn't last for long. I had just destroyed this gun.
Fortunately, Henry Repeating Arms is very responsive, and they said to send it back to them and they would either fix it or mail back another one. They also they would pay the shipping both ways. I'm impressed.
The moral of this story is to never use any of these cleaning products unless you first test it on a small area where it won't show, and ensure it doesn't melt the material.
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Post by MLB on Dec 3, 2005 21:15:25 GMT -5
Like I said, I'm done with plastic guns.
Glad to hear Henry Repeating Arms is a stand-up company TMan.
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Post by TMan on Dec 4, 2005 0:25:11 GMT -5
MLB, this appears to be some sort of a plastic coating over the top of a metal shell. I'm not totally against plastic. If I was against it, I wouldn't have had a plastic roof put on my house. ;D
I just don't like it when I can dissolve it with a solvent.
At least plastic doesn't rust.
I'm a little nervous about tung oil finishes. On 3 of my Mil-Surp rifles, I've put 15 coats of tung oil, and tomorrow I finish it with the 16th coat. I'd hate to ruin the finish on one of these when I'm cleaning the rifle.
The thing I don't like about plastic guns is the inability for changing the grips. I was going to buy an H&K USP, but it just didn't fit my hand good. I doubt if it would dissolve with cleaner though.
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Post by TA on Dec 4, 2005 11:18:40 GMT -5
I hate these kinds of learning experiences...I saw some poor guy selling his M1 Garand for parts because he did something that ate away the parts to below spec..
I have not had any issue with the Tung Oil finishes and standard cleaning solvents. The big plus is that you can fix that, it just takes time. Linseed Oil is even less resistant than Tung Oil. You shouldn't have any problems with bore cleaners, oils etc.. Tri-Clor or Laquer Thinner will remove the finish though.
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Post by "DoubleAction" on Dec 4, 2005 18:47:46 GMT -5
TMan; With as many various firearms that you have been acquiring, in such a short period of time, I'm glad your sharing with us these problems you've encountered between those you own.
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Post by TMan on Dec 4, 2005 20:30:59 GMT -5
I guess "time" is relative. I've been doing this for quite a few years now. Compared to some of the buyers at my dealers, I don't buy much.
This is only the second gun that has had to go back to the manufacturer though. The others I've been able to fix myself, or slap myself up beside the head for creating the problem myself. For example: one gun wasn't going into battery and the reason was the grease I had on the rails when the owner's manual (you know, that thing nobody reads because it has so much BS safety warnings to protect the manufacturer from lawsuits) said to use oil.
I usually do skim through the owner's manual. However, in this case, I read it in detail after the receiver melted all over my hands. There wasn't any warning.
Actually, I'd rather learn from other people's mistakes, but of course they have to share.
I'm sure once I start reloading (I'm still getting equipment), I'll have many screwups to write about. This is assuming of course that my screwups aren't so great that I have failed to survive. ;D
Since this is a handgun forum, should I mention any problems that I have reloading rifle ammo? So far I plan on reloading 303 British, 8x57 Mauser, 7.62x54R and 30-06 for rifles, and 45 Colt/454 Casull for Handguns. I think I'll add 357 Magnum at some point, but if I do that, I'll probably buy a progressive loader. I shoot a lot of 357 Magnum. The problem is that I usually shoot S&B and I've heard their brass is not so easy to reload.
I haven't decided if I want to reload the Swiss Schmidt-Rubin or not. I love the rifle, and I've shot it a lot.
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Post by turbolover336 on Feb 26, 2007 4:08:54 GMT -5
if you shoot it .. by all means reload for it
the benefits of doing so are not limited to just saving money
control over the ammo is instrumental in making any firearm sing
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Post by blueglass on May 31, 2015 16:10:06 GMT -5
Definitely keep all of your Brass for your Swiss Rifle as that stuff can be very hard to come by especially up here in Canada. I have friends who shoot them and are always crying for more brass. With pistol brass you can get up to 20 trips thru the loader out of them. I have a single Hornaday and wish it was a progressive unit instead. Cut down on the time factor.
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Post by 5ontarget on Jun 1, 2015 9:56:22 GMT -5
The problem is the GP-11 Swiss surplus is Berdan primed. While not impossible to deprime, it sure is harder than boxer primed brass. Boxer primers are much easier to find, without buying 5,000-10,000 of them. The new manufactured Privi stuff is pretty decent commercial ammo, and it is boxer primed. Most of the folks I know locally buy Privi, shoot it and reload that brass rather than messing with the GP-11. There are some people buying the once fired GP-11 and reloading it, and they are welcome to it! It is very nice brass, I just don't want to take the time to mess with it. I think RCBS makes a claw type decapper for Berdan primers.
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Post by blueglass on Jun 1, 2015 17:56:24 GMT -5
Yes RCBS does make a decapper for declawing the brass. I have heard of some folks actually making their own tools as well which worked quite well for some of them also.
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