Post by TMan on Apr 20, 2005 19:26:10 GMT -5
Well, with some pointers to websites with information on the Walther P22 from 5ontarget, I tackled the trigger on my P22. It was a learning experience. The first important thing is to never take something apart unless you have time to do whatever and put it back together again. The elapsed time between disassembly and today's reassembly was near 3 weeks. I actually did the same thing with the Ruger Blackhawk - so much for never making the same mistake twice.
Here is the information that 5ontarget provided in his post:
Following the instructions made it fairly easy to disassemble the gun. Of course the trigger lock spring fell out, but with the excellent pictures, was no trouble to put back in later.
Using a medium India stone, I removed the excess material from the hammer, and then with a fine arkansas stone I lightly touched the hooks where the sear engages. All of this was done while the hammer was mounted on a Power Custom Series II jig with the universal adapter.
Then using a Dremel and Flitz, I polished the contact surfaces on the trigger, sear, and hammer. These were then coated with Action Magic II before reassembly.
Reassembly was fairly easy. After putting the sear in place, I then tried to slide the hammer and spring over their post and have them mate with the sear. It didn't take long to realize I'd die of old age before ever getting this back together. I then found that I could remove the post, get the hammer and spring in the correct position and then insert the post through them and into the trigger sub-assembly right side plate.
After getting all the parts in the inside of the sub-assembly into place I then tried to put on the left side plate. It wouldn't quite go all the way. I found that it was because of the magazine disconnect spring being in the way. With a small knife blade, I pushed the spring down, and it then easily went back together.
I was careless with the dowel pin (18), that the slide stop lever (15) pivots on. The pin needed to be pushed up from the other side so there was more projection for the stop lever to pivot on. It then went on easily, and the sub-assembly easily went back into the frame.
Having read the user manual several times, at least the sections I was interested in, I knew the procedure for reassembly after field-striping the pistol. At least I thought I did. I've only done it a couple of times, but trying to get the spring guide rod through the hole in the slide is a real mutha. However, prior to reassembly I read the entire manual. Under the section Interchangeable barrel on page 10, it shows the use of the "mounting pin" (70) to insert into the spring and it guides the whole thing back together, and then falls out. #$@%^ There isn't any mention of this in the section "Disassembly and reassembly of the pistol". I wondered what that little rod in the plastic bag with the other tools was for.
After replacing the stablizer assembly (aka fake compensator), I first inserted the worm screw, tightened it and then the mounting bolts for the stablizer. Hmmm, I could rock it slightly in a clockwise, counter-clockwise direction. After carefully tightening everything as tight as I dared, I still could rock it. Turned out that the problem was because the barrel nut (48) had become loose.
The results of my labors: slightly disappointing. The creep was gone, but I had only lightened the trigger pull by 3/4 lbs. It may get better after I shoot it some, if it does, I'll update this thread.
In retrospect: it still fits my hand as good as or better than any other pistol I have. It's trigger is too heavy for competition, but it wasn't meant for that anyhow. It is a fun little gun, but if someone had limited funds, I'd still recommend a Ruger or Buckmark in that order.
Here is the information that 5ontarget provided in his post:
Here is a guide for the p22 disassembly, and some other p22 stuff. www.sju.edu/~bc165187/p22main.html
I did some more digging and found some old threads on RCF. Major PITA as I had to manually search for them. hope this helps. www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55703
www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73814
www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65343
I did some more digging and found some old threads on RCF. Major PITA as I had to manually search for them. hope this helps. www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55703
www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73814
www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65343
Following the instructions made it fairly easy to disassemble the gun. Of course the trigger lock spring fell out, but with the excellent pictures, was no trouble to put back in later.
Using a medium India stone, I removed the excess material from the hammer, and then with a fine arkansas stone I lightly touched the hooks where the sear engages. All of this was done while the hammer was mounted on a Power Custom Series II jig with the universal adapter.
Then using a Dremel and Flitz, I polished the contact surfaces on the trigger, sear, and hammer. These were then coated with Action Magic II before reassembly.
Reassembly was fairly easy. After putting the sear in place, I then tried to slide the hammer and spring over their post and have them mate with the sear. It didn't take long to realize I'd die of old age before ever getting this back together. I then found that I could remove the post, get the hammer and spring in the correct position and then insert the post through them and into the trigger sub-assembly right side plate.
After getting all the parts in the inside of the sub-assembly into place I then tried to put on the left side plate. It wouldn't quite go all the way. I found that it was because of the magazine disconnect spring being in the way. With a small knife blade, I pushed the spring down, and it then easily went back together.
I was careless with the dowel pin (18), that the slide stop lever (15) pivots on. The pin needed to be pushed up from the other side so there was more projection for the stop lever to pivot on. It then went on easily, and the sub-assembly easily went back into the frame.
Having read the user manual several times, at least the sections I was interested in, I knew the procedure for reassembly after field-striping the pistol. At least I thought I did. I've only done it a couple of times, but trying to get the spring guide rod through the hole in the slide is a real mutha. However, prior to reassembly I read the entire manual. Under the section Interchangeable barrel on page 10, it shows the use of the "mounting pin" (70) to insert into the spring and it guides the whole thing back together, and then falls out. #$@%^ There isn't any mention of this in the section "Disassembly and reassembly of the pistol". I wondered what that little rod in the plastic bag with the other tools was for.
After replacing the stablizer assembly (aka fake compensator), I first inserted the worm screw, tightened it and then the mounting bolts for the stablizer. Hmmm, I could rock it slightly in a clockwise, counter-clockwise direction. After carefully tightening everything as tight as I dared, I still could rock it. Turned out that the problem was because the barrel nut (48) had become loose.
The results of my labors: slightly disappointing. The creep was gone, but I had only lightened the trigger pull by 3/4 lbs. It may get better after I shoot it some, if it does, I'll update this thread.
In retrospect: it still fits my hand as good as or better than any other pistol I have. It's trigger is too heavy for competition, but it wasn't meant for that anyhow. It is a fun little gun, but if someone had limited funds, I'd still recommend a Ruger or Buckmark in that order.
