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Post by TMan on May 13, 2005 19:41:45 GMT -5
So here I am cleaning .357 Magnum cylinders that I shot .38 Specials in again. I swore that if I shot .38's I just wouldn't care if I got the cylinders really clean or not. I was wrong - I care. As I'm looking into the cylinder (my eyesight isn't all that great) it looks like where the taper occurs that there are little rings that are filled with dirt. I'm wondering if when they make the cylinder, do they use different size drill bits to create the taper?
Would there be a way to smooth out the rings in order to make it easier to clean?
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Post by "DoubleAction" on May 13, 2005 21:26:57 GMT -5
TMan; One thing I started using in my barrels is a product called Tetra Lube. I would wonder if it could also be used in the cylinders to prevent the powder flash and carbon fouling from sticking as bad to the tapered area. The 617 I got has a real bad spot of carbon fouling outside the forcing cone, on the right side of the frame. The spot is a hard crust that is like glued to the frame. Because the frame has been bead blasted, I have to be careful in removing the spot because it will result in a polished effect to the satin finish. I tried the lead remover and it will not dissolve the spot. Never had this problem with centerfires.
Are you still shooting the S&B 38 specials?
The problem has to be in the powder and burn rate.
How about the cylinder face and forcing cone area; How does it clean up?
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Post by TMan on May 14, 2005 21:35:11 GMT -5
Well, Bill Wilson says that his version of snake oil, which I use religiously, used in the barrel, brushed, and then wiped, will reduce fouling. So, I have been doing that on the cylinders.
Yes, I still have over a case of the S&B .38 Special, which I bought on sale. Never thought it could be a particular brand of powder.
I thought of something else tonight while I was cleaning the Colt 1911. I'd put a couple of hundred rounds through it since its last cleaning. On the frame, just above the ramp, was a little spot of black carbon. I tried getting it off with the regular cleaner, but to no avail. I also didn't get the barrel clean to my satisfaction, so I figured it could wait until I felt better (caught myself a great spring cold). So, I sprayed a patch with Birchwood-Casey Sheath and ran it down the barrel. I don't think it would have rusted, since it is stainless, but I'll sleep better.
I then took the wet patch and used it to rub the black spot above the ramp until it came off. I'd found in the past it gets some spots off better than their cleaner. So, I'm going to try it in the cylinder and see how it does, but not tonight.
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