No lubricant on the sear?

[TMan]

I finally received the Volquartsen Mark III kit. Although it is a foreign concept, I actually started reading the instructions when I came across this:

It is important to keep all lubricants off hammer notch and face of sear. Failure to do so may cause malfunction.

Say what? I've been using Action Magic II on the ones I've stoned, and on others some black moly stuff. Am I doing the wrong thing?

["DoubleAction"]

TMan; I have a Volquartsen barrel on one of my Buckmarks, which the instructions states not to use anything but a patch that is to be pulled through the bore by a string or piece or fishing line. No rods or brushes are to go through the bore. In short; I follow their instructions.

[TMan]

Okay, but I'm looking for an answer in general. Other than Volquartsen, should you use some type of lubricant on the sear?

["DoubleAction"]

TMan; If your inclined to use a lubricate, you can do so and find out first hand if you have any malfunctions.

[MLB]

From a mostly uneducated point of view, I'd think that you'd want to use some sort of penetrating lubricant if any, as any excess lubricant on this small part may collect grit and affect the consistency of the release.

Something like that "Slick 50" stuff that you put in your engine. I think we had a discussion a while back on some sort of lubricant that required you to raise the temperature of the handgun (through firing I beleive) to achieve this "bond" to the metal.

[TMan]

MLB, what you are thinking of is the Action Magic II, where they tell you to raise the temperature to facilitate drying. I just left it overnight, and applied the second phase the next morning. I'm not too wild about applying heat to parts unless I absolutely have to.

I changed a front wheel bearing once. This was the kind where it is a big hub unit and an extremely tight fit on the spindle (you pound it off). I heated the hub in the oven to 200 degrees, and with a little lube on the spindle and a big push, it went on without any tapping.

Later the bearing on the other side started making noise, so i went through the same procedure. The difference was that it was winter time and the spindle was cold. When I gave it the big push, there was no resistance. I went flying forward, lost my balance, and my forward progress was stopped by my forehead making contact with the fender. Fortunately, there was no damage to the fender (it was my wife's car), and I healed.

I just don't like the idea of dry metal moving against dry metal. I was shocked when I read Volquartsen's instructions.

[5ontarget]

Mil-Tec is another one of the lubes/conditioners that is supposed to be baked on/in.

[MLB]

Thats the one I was thinking of! A while ago you could send a note to them via their website and they'd send you a sample. I wonder if they still do...