Need help fixing a Single-Six

[Fobos]

I’m having issues with a ,22 Cal Ruger Single-Six.

Here’s the short version - the hammer can be fully cocked only when the weapon is pointed upwards.

The reason for this problem is that a specific part (I couldn’t find it listed in any of the exploded diagrams on the net) is becoming jammed against the bottom of the firing pin as it moves upward (which happens when the hammer is being cocked).



Holding the gun vertically causes the part to lean away from the frame, which allows it to slide over the back of the firing pin when cocking the hammer back. In the following picture, I labeled the parts of the hammer that come into contact with the gun when the trigger is pulled. #1 is pointed at the portion of the hammer that strikes the frame, while #2 is pointed at the portion that strikes the “problem” part which in turn strikes the firing pin.



Upon disassembling the gun, I found that the part is connected to the back of the trigger, and it appears to be a safety mechanism that prevents the gun from firing if dropped on the hammer. Obviously, if the hammer is resting against the frame, and the mystery part is not resting against the firing pin, it is impossible for anything to strike the firing pin.

Once-upon-a-time, this gun was recalled (when it was my grandfather’s) and I believe a part was added to it. Rumor has it that the part was a safety mechanism of some kind. According to my father, the problem has existed since the recall.

I can do any gunsmithing work that needs to be done to fix the problem, whether the solution involves replacing parts or modifying them. I’d be grateful if anyone can send me off in the right direction…

["DoubleAction"]

Fobos; I'm not up on what Ruger did to the older models after the safety bars were installed. The part your referring to, which catches on the firing pin, is the Transfer Bar, part number XRN-72, on the New Model Single Six. Try cross referencing this to your own sources. Another member might be able to help with what you have to work with in front of you. In the meantime, I'll see what I can find out.

["DoubleAction"]

Fobos; There should be a spring pressing against the Transfer Bar. Your best bet is to call Ruger on the phone, or send them an email about this. Ruger offered the Transfer Bar upgrade as a free service to those earlier production revolvers; that was before shipping rates went through the roof on shipping firearms. You also have the option of ordering an armorer's video from AGI on this gun, which covers about everything inside of it's functional mechanics.

[TMan]

Fobos, coincidentally, we were working on my intermittent problem with the S&W 686-1 hanging up, when the guy helping me described the problem I just read about in your post. He ended up stoning some off the transfer bar. It was an intermittent problem with him though, and not solid like you are experiencing.

Is it back together properly? See page 9 of the instruction manual.

www.ruger.com/Firearms/PDF/40.pdf

Oh, by the way, you get a A+ for your photography.

["DoubleAction"]

Fobos; Try this link too : www.ruger-firearms.com/Firearms/PDF/D10.pdf

[Fobos]

Thanks for all the info, folks. I'm checking this out right now...

[Fobos]

tman said:

Fobos, coincidentally, we were working on my intermittent problem with the S&W 686-1 hanging up, when the guy helping me described the problem I just read about in your post. He ended up stoning some off the transfer bar. It was an intermittent problem with him though, and not solid like you are experiencing.

Is it back together properly? See page 9 of the instruction manual.

www.ruger.com/Firearms/PDF/40.pdf

Oh, by the way, you get a A+ for your photography.

Unfortunately, the manual you linked to is for DA revolvers. The Single-Six I'm working on is a SA. But your link did help me find the correct manual.

And thanks for the compliment. ;D More pics are on the way.

[MLB]

Hey there Fobos. Following is a link to the "safety" upgrade.

www.ruger.com/Firearms/PDF/safety_offer_ad.pdf

Seems to me that the hammer would have to be replaced along with the new transfer bar. Anyway, sounds like the spring that DA mentioned is broken. I can see how stoning the edge (beveling it) may make it work, but stoning the transfer bar too much may make it inoperable. Better to get it fixed.

[Fobos]

admin said:

Fobos; Try this link too : www.ruger-firearms.com/Firearms/PDF/D10.pdf

Unfortunately, this was an updated version of one I'm working on. The exploded diagram was drawn well enough to see the differences in many of the parts. After seeing this, I'm convinced that the factory upgrade to the older Single-Six's was rather hastily implemented.

[Fobos]

mlb said:

Hey there Fobos. Following is a link to the "safety" upgrade.

www.ruger.com/Firearms/PDF/safety_offer_ad.pdf

Seems to me that the hammer would have to be replaced along with the new transfer bar. Anyway, sounds like the spring that DA mentioned is broken. I can see how stoning the edge (beveling it) may make it work, but stoning the transfer bar too much may make it inoperable. Better to get it fixed.

Actually, the first course of action I considered was to hone down the end of the transfer bar. That would have been a big mistake, so I'm glad I continued to tinker and experiment. The transfer bar has to be against the back of the firing pin in order for the gun to fire. The hammer itself doesn't come into contact with the pin, it strikes the transfer bar. I realized this when watching the transfer bar as I pulled the trigger, because the transfer bar actually rises up to cover half of the firing pin when the trigger is being pulled. If I had honed down the transfer bar, the gun would be jamming during the trigger squeeze rather than while the hammer was being cocked.

[Fobos]

You guys were definitely right about the spring. It was something I considered earlier, but I couldn't imagine how one would implement it. I gave up on finding the solution on my own, and that’s when I made this thread.

Tonight, while looking deeper into the trigger mechanism, I found this:



The protruding end of the part comes into contact with nothing else inside the gun while at rest or during use. And it is obviously set at a peculiar angle. Applying some pressure with a punch confirmed that it is indeed spring-loaded. I removed the trigger to examine more closely.



Here is the real culprit of this crime, the Cylinder Latch:



You can see separation, which I indicated with the yellow lines. That plane actually runs through the entire part, indicating that it is the combination of two parts that were fused together. The contact point for the Transfer Bar has peeled away from the other portion of the part, causing it to be out of place. I’ll order the replacement part (CK45, Cylinder Latch) ASAP and report back soon.

For anyone interested, here is the pdf file I found that applies to this specific gun: www.ruger.com/Firearms/PDF/D11.pdf

I also learned that this model is known as the Pre-1973 “Old Model” Ruger Single-Six.

["DoubleAction"]

Fobos; Thanks for keeping in touch on this, and Thanks more for those great photos used in illlustrating.