Post by TMan on Jan 21, 2007 9:30:45 GMT -5
My trigger-pull gauge goes to 8lbs. My Taurus PT92AF, which is a licensed copy of the Beretta 92, has a single-action pull that is off the scale.
Wolff makes reduced power hammer springs, which should help a little with the trigger pull.
I bought the AGI course which says Beretta/Taurus. Guess what? It doesn't cover the locking device that is in the handle. Doing Google searches on the web was not productive. So I was in discovery mode. It wasn't easy, but now that I've done it, I'm documenting the procedure here:
Removal of the "hammer spring support pin" allows the "hammer spring support" to move a little, but it won't come out. It is necessary to first remove the locking device, which really should be done before removing the hammer spring support pin.
The locking device is composed of 4 parts: "key lock","key lock pin","key lock spring", and "key lock ball". The key lock has a groove that the key lock ball rides in, and the ball is tensioned by the key lock spring. There is an opening in the top of the key lock where the "hammer spring guide" moves into when you cock the hammer. Other guns refer to the "hammer spring guide" as a "hammer strut". Obviously, you can't activate the lock with the hammer cocked although there is no mention of that in the manual.
To activate the lock, with the hammer decocked, you insert the "key" and rotate the lock 900. Therefore, there is no place for the "hammer spring guide" to move into, and the hammer can't be cocked. It is actually a rather good and clever device.
After you remove the grips you will notice on the right side near the lock there are two holes. The bottom hole contains the pin that holds the lock in place, which must be driven out. You can then remove the lock. If it is tight, reach inside the magazine well and push it out from the inside. Do this over a clean area because the key lock ball, which is very tiny, will fall out. We aren't done yet.
Across from the top hole, on the right side, there is the lock spring, and it has to be removed before the hammer spring support can be removed. Mine was stuck, and I had to work on it a bit to get it out.
At this point the hammer spring support pin, a roll pin, must be driven out, and then the hammer spring support can be removed. The support is different on the Taurus than on the Beretta. On the latter there is a lanyard loop, which you push down on and then press out the support pin.
Although the Taurus lock is a clever device, it is a pain in the rear when you want to replace the mainspring. Lawyers
Wolff makes reduced power hammer springs, which should help a little with the trigger pull.
I bought the AGI course which says Beretta/Taurus. Guess what? It doesn't cover the locking device that is in the handle. Doing Google searches on the web was not productive. So I was in discovery mode. It wasn't easy, but now that I've done it, I'm documenting the procedure here:
Removal of the "hammer spring support pin" allows the "hammer spring support" to move a little, but it won't come out. It is necessary to first remove the locking device, which really should be done before removing the hammer spring support pin.
The locking device is composed of 4 parts: "key lock","key lock pin","key lock spring", and "key lock ball". The key lock has a groove that the key lock ball rides in, and the ball is tensioned by the key lock spring. There is an opening in the top of the key lock where the "hammer spring guide" moves into when you cock the hammer. Other guns refer to the "hammer spring guide" as a "hammer strut". Obviously, you can't activate the lock with the hammer cocked although there is no mention of that in the manual.
To activate the lock, with the hammer decocked, you insert the "key" and rotate the lock 900. Therefore, there is no place for the "hammer spring guide" to move into, and the hammer can't be cocked. It is actually a rather good and clever device.
After you remove the grips you will notice on the right side near the lock there are two holes. The bottom hole contains the pin that holds the lock in place, which must be driven out. You can then remove the lock. If it is tight, reach inside the magazine well and push it out from the inside. Do this over a clean area because the key lock ball, which is very tiny, will fall out. We aren't done yet.
Across from the top hole, on the right side, there is the lock spring, and it has to be removed before the hammer spring support can be removed. Mine was stuck, and I had to work on it a bit to get it out.
At this point the hammer spring support pin, a roll pin, must be driven out, and then the hammer spring support can be removed. The support is different on the Taurus than on the Beretta. On the latter there is a lanyard loop, which you push down on and then press out the support pin.
Although the Taurus lock is a clever device, it is a pain in the rear when you want to replace the mainspring. Lawyers
