S&W M22A/M22S Detailed Strip & Trigger

[TMan]

The S&W 22A has a reputation second only to the Sigma. However, I've held them, looked at them, liked the weight, and then last week Cabela's had them for $169, which is below dealer's cost.

The trigger was marginal: 4 lbs with only a barely perceptible amount of creep. What bothered me the most was the amount of pressure needed for take-up - the trigger return spring was way too heavy.

A search on the internet for detailed disassembly yielded nothing, which is unlike all the information about the Beretta Neos disassembly.

Numrich has a schematic for the gun, and I'll use their names and numbers for parts as I describe the disassembly.

After field-stripping remove the grips by removing the 4 identical screws then pry the grips apart at the rear where the beaver-tail would be. Then take a moment to look at how things connect.

The anchor leg of the trigger return spring (48) hooks onto the trigger bar assembly (47). The trigger bar assembly connects the trigger to the sear (35) and also has a vertical post that serves as a disconnecter. In order for this connection to work the bar must be in the raised position. However, along the left side of the frame is a metal bar and a spring that aren't in the Numrich schematic. When there isn't a magazine inserted, the spring pushes the lever down and it hooks the trigger bar assembly and prevents it from connecting the sear.

The magazine disconnect is passive i.e. unlike the Browning Hi-Power, which is active when you squeeze trigger and adds to the trigger pull weight, this magazine disconnect has no effect on the trigger operation.

I've failed to fully insert a magazine on a Buckmark and had it fall out while I was shooting. With the S&W magazine disconnect, I have to fully insert the magazine in order for the gun to work. In other words, I'm going to leave the parts in there because I see value in doing so.

Along the back-strap you can see the mainspring (22) and the mainspring guide (23), which I would refer to as the hammer strut, but that is just me. What you probably can't see at this point is that behind the mainspring is the sear spring (36), which is a leaf spring.

Looking down from the top of the pistol you can see the ejector (3) and the hammer assembly (12). Notice the roll pin that they call the takedown hammer stop pin (44).

Before getting into the disassembly, go back to look at the trigger bar assembly. The trigger return spring is serving a dual purpose: it returns the trigger, and it cams the trigger bar assembly upwards. So, if we get too aggressive in trying to remove the tension on this spring we could end up with a situation where the trigger bar assembly doesn't always go upwards far enough to catch the sear.

Now the tricky part: see that big black metal plate on the left side of the pistol. You have to remove that. Pry up on the upper left side and stick a popsicle stick under it. Then pry up on the lower left corner and at the same time push the plate to the right to unhook it from the notch in the hammer pin (13). You can then remove the manual safety (25) by lifting it out and the magazine disconnect along with its spring.

The trigger bar is being held in place by the leg of the trigger return spring. Using a small hook, pull the spring away and then pull out the trigger bar. You can then push out the trigger pin (46) and remove the trigger (45) and trigger return spring (48).

The mainspring and mainspring guide appear to be captive under the frame and are under tension even when the gun isn't cocked - trouble. However, if you could move the hammer further forward, but you can't because the roll pin that holds the ejector is in the way. Using a suitable punch, drive the roll pin to the right from the left side of the frame until it is totally contained by the right side of the frame. In other words: no need to remove it completely, just get it out of the way.

Now you can move the hammer forward, and by applying slight pressure you can push out the hammer pin from the left. Now find the hammer spring.

The sear is easy to remove: push out the pin and remove the sear and sear spring.

At this point, looking at how the sear and hammer mated, and how much the replacement parts cost, I thought it would be prudent not to get aggressive in changing the engagement angles. Therefore, I lightly stoned the surfaces and then polished them with Flitz and the Dremel. I also polished the trigger bar.

Reassembly, as they always say, is the reverse of disassembly. A couple of hints:

The sear spring can be a little difficult. You can move the sear with your thumb over the part that protrudes from the frame and is hooked by the trigger bar.

I found it easier to not push the hammer pin all the way through, but just enough to hold the hammer. Then I inserted the ejector and drove the roll pin back through it. I then made sure that the lower hole in the ejector lined up perfectly with the trigger pin and pushed it through.

Now what did I do with the trigger pull gauge...

Modified to add: Forgot to mention how you get that black metal plate back into place. It is basically a spring in its own right. So lightly clamp it in place and then using a suitable size screwdriver placed between it and the safety lever, pry it into place.

I found the trigger pull gauge and it reads 2-3/4 lbs. With the wide trigger, it really feels great. Now if it would warm up enough outside to go shoot...

[BIGDOG]

Wow!
Great detailed article T Man. 4 lbs to 2 1/2 that would be a excellent trigger on this 22!
G

[Eleyman]

TMan, My son was up to see me on Father's Day and I showed him my new project, the S&W 22A. He said he had seen them at the ranges but had never fired one.

I told him about finding your information on removing the spring plate and what I was planning, he suggested that I get a block of Aluminum and make my own trigger, with a trigger stop incorporated. That sounds like a good project where I can use my carving skills. I'll make it out of wood first, that will give me a chance to see what kinds of problems I might run into later.

Maybe I will receive suggestions, (Positive Only Please) for some of the members on the Forum. When I get going on this project I'll keep everyone posted as to what I am doing, what works and what doesn't.

I heard a guy say, "You're still alive, DO SOMETHING." So this is what I am going to do. ;D ;D

[TMan]

If you have the skills, I think that making your own trigger is a great idea. That way you can make it very wide, and that will result in the trigger feeling even lighter to you.

However, before tearing into the pistol, I suggest putting several hundred rounds through it to make sure that it is running right before making any modifications. Consequently, if there is a problem, you will know that it was there from the beginning and not caused by something that you did.

[blueglass]

I have had one of these as well and they are a good gun for the money. That is a heck of a great price for that gun if you get both mags, case, spare buffer tabs and cleaning rod with it. I sold mine just a month or so ago when I found my M41. Broke the darn ejector pin in it just last night on the range but its no problem to get another one at all. We had a gunshow here on this past Sunday where a m41 went for $1000. and a m46 went for $800.00. I paid a lot less then that thankfully for both of mine.

[Eleyman]

TMan, thanks for the advise, that's a good idea. So far I have fired 150 rounds through it without any failures. Each time I go to the range to practice with my Ruger, I shoot 50 rounds of Ammo through the S&W 22A at the end of the practice session. I do not use my good ammo, I use some of the High Velocity stuff that I use for practicing timed and rapid fire.

blueglass, I thought the same thing about the price of the 22A, it wouldn't break the bank and if I was not successful in my endeavors, then it could be sold without to much loss.

My son has a S&W Mod.41, he likes it, but there is a nagging problem in that every once and a while it will catch the ejected brass when the slid goes forward. It never happen during slow fire matches, just during timed and rapid fire matches. I have suggested that we take it to the range and using my digital video camera, record what is going on and see if we can spot the reason for the malfunction. Maybe later this summer when he has time off from work.

Has anyone had this problem and if so, what was the cause?

[blueglass]

I actually just broke the ejector pin in mine on Tuesday night at the range. It was starting to do the same thing. The new part is only $14.95 from Brownells. I shoot only the CCI 40gr ammo in both my M41 and my M46. That works the best it seems as to having more gas pressure but will stovepipe on occasion as well. My gun is a 1958 model year issue so it was a older part which was probably well worn and maybe part of the problem as well. Sure happy to have my 46 as a backup as its shoots perfectly as well for a 1963 year gun. Sold my Marocchi 22LR sport rifle this morning. That was clear profit from my recent purchase of 4 nice rifles for $400. Have all my money back now with $300. clear on top and 2 guns to go as yet.