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Post by TMan on Jul 27, 2009 20:06:52 GMT -5
When Becky first gave me a can of the foam cleaner to try, I remember trying it and not being impressed. Since then, I have used it on several rifles and was pleased with the blue patches that resulted from it. Also, leaving it in too long doesn't seem to hurt the barrel.
Tonight after 300 rounds through the H&K USP, I decided to clean it. The foam was handy, I sprayed it, and came back an hour later. The patches came out black, but no blue coloring. Now I'm wondering: have I ever gotten copper fouling on a handgun?
Could it be the orthogonal barrel isn't as susceptible to fouling? Could it be that the handgun bullets just aren't going fast enough to cause fouling?
Has anyone gotten copper fouling on a handgun?
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Post by MLB on Jul 28, 2009 10:45:16 GMT -5
My first stab at it is that the powder fouling is more or less fixed based on the powder charge. The copper fouling amount could be based on the barrel length (as the bullet has to scrape along it)
Perhaps the copper fouling is more evident on the rifle barrels since it makes up a larger percentage of the grime in the barrel. There is roughly 5 to 10x the barrel on a rifle
... that's just a SWAG though...
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Post by 5ontarget on Jul 28, 2009 13:11:31 GMT -5
My guess is along the same lines. Not much rifling in a 4"bbl relative to the 16+" of a rifle, not as much bbl to cut into the jacket. I would expect more carbon fouling within the first few inches of a bbl, and in the case of a handgun, the whole barrel. I've not ever tried cleaning the breech 1/2 and then the bore 1/2 of a barrel to compare though.
The polygonal/orthgonal/nontraditional rifling does not cut the bullet like traditional land/groove rifling does, so that may be a factor in that paticular barrel. Polygonal rifling does not deform the bullet as much as traditional rifling.
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Post by TMan on Jul 30, 2009 9:45:43 GMT -5
Hmmm, I'm cleaning guns and putting them away since I'm going to be several months without shooting.
Yesterday I was cleaning the Doublestar 1911 even though I'd only put 100 rounds through it, and I got blue on the patch. This gun has traditional rifling. That leads me to believe that the type of rifling has the greatest effect. Having given it some thought, I do remember seeing the Bill Wilson video and he does mention getting the copper fouling out of the barrel.
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Post by "DoubleAction" on Jul 31, 2009 21:08:25 GMT -5
I use the Shooter's Choice "Extra Strength" Copper Remover for getting the hard stuff out, and the Hoppe's Bench Rest 9 for light duty cleaning. I also used jags and .50 cal. black powder brushes on my .45 acp barrels. After I am finish, I use a bore light and jeweler's lupe to inspect the bore.
Prior to using the copper remover, I always give the bore a through cleaning with Hoppe's 9, a brush, and the jag. If is too dirty, I let the bore set overnight in Hoppe's 9.
The clean up has become much easier and faster since I began using "Tetra Gun" lubricant in my bores. I heard somebody say that they're not fond using Flitz Polishing Paste in their bores, but I've been using it, with patches wrapped my jags to the bores, followed by the Tetra Gun Lube.
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Post by TMan on Jul 31, 2009 21:23:13 GMT -5
DA, I agree with you for the most part, but not using Flitz in the barrel because it is quite abrasive. It may not do any harm, but I wouldn't take the chance (unless it was on a Jennings).
I had to take my wife's car (1997 BMW 840 w/25,000 miles) in for an oil change yesterday. Wednesday night I noticed her car was quite dusty. I dusted it with a California Duster, then sprayed it down with Meguiar's®, Quik Detailer, and wiped it off. I noticed all the dirt on the rags and it concerned me, but the car looked brand new.
I called my son today (owner of body shop in Marietta, GA), and asked him. Turns out my fears were right - bad news, it puts little scratches in the clear coat finish. "Always wash it first - okay on your silver car, but not on Mom's black one. You can see the scratches if you look closely in the sunlight."
So, I'm a little nervous about anything that could be abrasive.
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Post by "DoubleAction" on Aug 1, 2009 3:09:21 GMT -5
I know what you mean TMan; I use the mequires polish while I hand buff the finish with diapers on my vehicles and apply wax afterward, giving the same treatment the hand buffing. I also use terry cloth if I run out of diapers.
I don't let the Flitz dry, while applying it directly on cotton bore patches, wrapped around a jag, with a ball bearing pistol cleaning rod. The lands and rifling on bore surface is like looking at bore of new Python, like a mirror, With No scratches. I don't do it all the time, because it usually takes only one or two times to achieve the results I look for.
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Post by TMan on Aug 2, 2009 8:12:58 GMT -5
DA, I got up before the wife this morning and decided to do some gun cleaning. While doing so, I noticed the JB Bore Cleaner, which I have used on a bore before. Flitz is nothing in the way of abrasive compared to JB's.
Well, I need to get the coffee on, and get ready to go to church. Since the pastor is coming over to mow my lawn in the morning, I'd feel guilty if I didn't go to church.
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Post by 5ontarget on Aug 2, 2009 8:45:39 GMT -5
I'll use JB bore paste on some sewer pipe surplus rifles, after I've hit them with the electronic bore cleaner a couple times. I have not used it on any new production stuff yet. I've had some bores that were so rough, they tore the patches as I pushed them through.
I just bought a couple of old Chinese Mauser, Chinese Mosin (T53), and a couple Martini-Henry's.
The mauser bore looks really good, the action is smooth, passes headspace, but the barrel under the handguard is pitted very badly. Probably wont shoot it, if I do it'll be with some very downloaded stuff. It was advertised as a wall hanger, so I wasn't expecting a shooter. My hopes were raised when I ran a couple patches through the bore, but were quickly dashed again when I started taking the wood off.
The rising ammo costs have done one thing for me, I've been working much more on my project guns now.
Have some parts on order to finish an AK or two, then back to the FAL.
/threaddrift
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Post by "DoubleAction" on Aug 2, 2009 20:01:50 GMT -5
It might worth mentioning that I use Flitz to polish my fire control components on my Sigs and 1911s, followed by a buffer on my dremel. On the pins, I only take a light hand polishing.
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Post by TMan on Aug 9, 2009 21:24:29 GMT -5
Me too. In fact I've gone through a whole tube of the stuff.
After doing a trigger job using progressively finer stones I follow by the Flitz.
It is really good stuff for polishing.
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