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Post by TA on Jun 24, 2005 21:01:24 GMT -5
The plunger tube is a common trouble spot. Check it to see if it is loose. It is an easy fix.
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Post by TBT on Jan 30, 2006 13:16:14 GMT -5
Is it a must to detail strip the gun to brush the flats? Couldn't I go about this without the belt sander using elbow grease without detail stripping the gun?
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Post by TA on Jan 30, 2006 22:12:29 GMT -5
I think it would be difficult to get a uniform appearance that way. You could do a high polish that way though.
If you don't want to buy the plunger tube staking tool, you could just pull the old one off, buy a new one and have your local Smith install it. It shouldn't cost more than $10-15 for his labor. 5-10 minutes.
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Post by MLB on Jan 30, 2006 23:22:18 GMT -5
I had been thinking about putting a high polish on the PPK/S. Decided against it though. As a carry piece, the mirror finish would show every blemish.
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Post by TBT on Feb 1, 2006 9:25:21 GMT -5
How would one go about doing a high polish? The reason that I am asking is I just bought an SW1911 and am wanting to remove the "billboard roll mark". From what I understand people have done this and the roll mark isn't deep compared to other stamps etc.
I really liked that brushed stainless look you have on your Kimber TA. I'm just scared as all hell to detail strip a gun. If I can't get it back together ... and the SW1911 has that external extractor. Could that make it even worse?
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Post by TBT on Feb 1, 2006 9:27:27 GMT -5
Also ... would it look goofy if I say, brushed the flats of the slide and didn't touch the frame at all? It would wouldn't it?
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Post by TA on Feb 1, 2006 11:16:37 GMT -5
I think you could probably get away with only doing the slide. If you didn't like it, you could always do the frame at a later time. I have not removed the external extractor on my 1911Sc, but you may be able to leave it in place for the refinish. If it doesn't brush evenly, you will have to remove it and polish it seperately.
Don't fear detail stripping. Once you know how to do it, it is easy. DA has a lot of tutorials available and the guys here can help you if you get stuck. The AGI DVD's are also very helpful. I detail strip and clean my 1911's about once a year each. They are never as clean as you can get them from stripping and cleaning with Simple Green and water. I recall DA saying he detail strips his 1911's often because it is just easier to clean that way. I have to agree.
I haven't done a high polish on stainless yet. It is usually done with fine sandpaper or scotch-brite followed up by Flitz and a whole lot of elbow grease.
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Post by TBT on Feb 1, 2006 12:52:11 GMT -5
Ive looked at DA's picture instructions on the group pages and my dumb ass can't seem to follow them without commentary. I guess I could pick up an AGI DVD to check out. I really do want to know how to detail strip 1911's. From there maybe I could even get into some small do-it-yourself-gunsmithing.
Does the Smith 1911 disassemble like a regular 1911? Is that universal that you know of?
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Post by "DoubleAction" on Feb 1, 2006 13:29:40 GMT -5
TBT; I need to finish the Tutorials on some of my 1911 pages for stripping, especially how the lock works on the magazine release. One thing I did was try to provide close up details on how the fire control system functions in the frame. Not knowing how the parts functions with each other will hender one's ability to detail strip and assemble the frame.
You can always PM me and tell me what I can provide to help you better understand anything. It will also help me in providing a better tutorial for the photos.
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Post by TBT on Feb 1, 2006 14:05:01 GMT -5
God DA ... I'm such an idiot you would be writing a novel for each photo lol. I know little to nothing about the inner workings of the 1911.
But .. If I do this I still need to get that tool to stake the plunger tube?
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Post by TA on Feb 1, 2006 14:15:21 GMT -5
The S&W 1911's have the firing pin safety that involves a few extra steps and parts.
If you want to put the frame on a belt sander, there really is no way around removing the plunger tube.
You could get lucky and be able to re-use the old tube, but I wouldn't count on it and they are inexpensive. On the AGI video, Bob Dunlap uses a punch that he modified for staking plunger tubes. You can try that, but if you plan on having much of a collection of 1911's, it may pay to get the tool since they do work loose occasionally.
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Post by TBT on Feb 1, 2006 15:55:26 GMT -5
Yoi ... extra steps and parts and I don't even know the basic steps yet haha.
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Post by TBT on Feb 1, 2006 16:02:53 GMT -5
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Post by TA on Feb 1, 2006 16:04:51 GMT -5
yep, that'll do it.
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Post by TBT on Feb 1, 2006 16:19:25 GMT -5
One more question ... will any ol' 1911 plunger tube work as a replacment or does it have to be SW?
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Post by TA on Feb 1, 2006 19:55:12 GMT -5
Standard 1911
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Post by TBT on Feb 1, 2006 20:22:50 GMT -5
Your the best TA.
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Post by TBT on Mar 10, 2006 21:12:21 GMT -5
Okay. Now that I know how to detail strip a 1911 I'm thinking about giving this a shot TA.
I would be using a Black and Decker hand held belt sander, not a bench sander. Will this work?
What exactly would I need to do this? How do I hold the frame still whilst I'm sanding it?
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Post by 5ontarget on Mar 11, 2006 8:12:51 GMT -5
I'm not sure what TA will say, but here's my $0.0000002.
Either put the sander in a vise (make sure it is in there securely.) or use a wooden or padded vise to secure your slide and hold the sander. I've not tried working on gun slides, but I do know that I prefer to hold the piece and bring it to the sander. Especially for smaller pieces like that. I don't trust myself to hold a belt sander steady, but I can hold something the size of a slide steady, and work the angles with much more precision. Using a Dremel or other small tools, I usually prefer to hold the Dremel, and secure the object.
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Post by TMan on Mar 11, 2006 9:18:49 GMT -5
Last year I bought a bench mounted belt sander, and I bought it on sale for $100, which as I write this it is currently on sale at Sears for the same amount. When I use it, I just set it on top of the table saw. (With the saw unplugged of course). www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00921514000This is an el-cheapo belt-sander, and there are nice ones for around $700, but for something I'm going to use a couple of times a year. I'd rather spend the money on guns. I don't know if it is better to hold the part or hold the tool, but I did make an observation while in China. We were visiting a factory where they carve Jade into all sorts of different things. The way they do that is they have a horizontal shaft motor with a long shaft and the cutting tool at the end. They then moved the pieces around the cutting tool. Another observation was that the people doing the carving were all women. There was one man there, but he was doing the polishing. |
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