Kimber 1911 project

[TA]

I have been working on a Kimber Classic SS Target for a few months now. It is a pre-series and was bone stock when I got it.

So far I have done a 2 1/2 lb. trigger job, polished the flats, checkered the front strap, replaced the plastic MSH with a S&A, re-bead blasted to touch up around the front strap and fixed a few factory flaws and made a set of grips for it. I still may change out ignition parts and slide stop with Wilson parts and maybe refit a good barrel and bushing.

BEFORE:


AFTER:

[TMan]

I'm really impressed. What did you do to the trigger to get it down to 2 1/2 lbs? You stated that you made the grips - they sure look good. What did you use for stock?

Looks like a different magazine too.

[TA]

Thanks Tman,

1st I stoned the Sear using a Power Custom Series One fixture to get the correct primary and secondary angles on the sear. I then dressed the hammer hooks to 90 degrees and measured their length. Next I reduced and balanced the sear and disconnector leg pressure of the sear spring using a digital pull gauge. I adjusted out the take up and overtravel just enough to be sure the sear wasn't bumping the 1/2 cock notch. Jack Weigand has a great article on Brownells Bench Talk on how to do it. Jerry Kuhnhausen's 1911 manuals are also another great source.

I set the trigger at 2 1/2 more for fun. I noticed lately, it is closer to 2 lbs., and that is too light to be reliable and safe and I had the hammer follow once at the range the other day, so I will probably redo the ignition system and set up a 3 1/2 lb. pull. I think that is a happy medium.

The wood I used for these grips is African Wenge.

["DoubleAction"]

Great JoB TA !; If we had enough of these projects we could start our own 1911 Area. Did you use a checkering file or Fixture for the front strap ? It looks professional.
Jack Weigand put together a good trigger pull article for Brownell's. I have a couple of S&W revolvers he did actions on, with double action strokes which are unbelievable.
Back to your 1911; When, or if, you decide to replace any existing fire control components in the future, Wilson has some nice hammers with the half cocked center leg to protect the sear nose hooks on the lighter trigger actions.
Did you also swap out your mainspring, cut coils off an existing spring, or remain with your factory spring?
Grips too? TA; You've been holding on the contributions long enough.
Thanks for the great contribution.

[MLB]

I was very happy with the work I did on my PPK/S grips until I saw TA's work on the 1911. You should post some of your grip work here TA. It's professional grade craftsmanship.

[TA]

Thanks guys for all the compliments. It really has been fun working on this gun.

DA, I used a 25 lpi checkering file and a Power Custom jig. The jig is only $10 and secures to the frame to provide a straight edge to run your file along until your starting lines are cut. It is tedious and time consuming but fun in a weird sort of way. As it starts to come together, it is satisfying. You don't want to work on it any more than 2-3 hours at a time, because you will start making mistakes. I've since done a Makarov front strap and have replaced a few things inside it. I made a set of wood grips for it and will be giving it a Gun-Kote finish soon. I should have started out learning to checker on the Mak, but it all worked out.

I am going to use Wilson Parts. I was going to go with the #337 ultralight hammer. It says "narrow 1/2 cock notch to prevent sear nose damage". I think this is the one you are speaking of. I am going with only machined from bar stock parts when I can. I didn't replace the main spring with a 19 lb. one. I bought this gun used, so I don't know how many rounds have been through it, so besides purdy clothes, it needs new inards.

Hopefully around the 1st week in June, I will be opening my web-site www.topgunsupply.com . I am a Wilson Master Parts Dealer, Milt Sparks Holster Dealer and will also be selling TA GRIPS. So if anybody needs anything let me know. I will be stocking the VM2 and SS2 holsters, starting with just black 1 1/2" belt loops, right handed for 5", 4.25", 4" and 3" 1911's. I will eventually have some for the Sig P239 too, but that order probably won't hit my door before early August. I will be stocking the better line of Wilson parts, such as the Bulletproof parts and other machined parts.

And MLB, your PPK grips look awesome. You are being modest.

["DoubleAction"]

TA; While your making grips, I wish you would get into installing medallions . Gun Parts sells the medallions for Colt but I do not know about the S&W medallion. Some medallions are simply glued on, using a flat surface, others are buttoned on with a crimp. I like the glue and button combination to prevent the medallion from falling out at the range.
I would choose the #337 hammer also, it's only three dollars more than the #299.
I read once that Wilson had it's slides and frames, same as the Kimber when they first began their own line of Wilson 1911s. I then saw where Kimber was having S&W provide frames and slides from their foundry. Seeing you have a Kimber Frame and Slide, using Wilson Parts; It would be very interesting to hear some feed back on your project after your finished.

[TA]

DA,

I was actually thinking about doing medallions. From what I have heard, at least with Wilson, the size of the medallion is not a standard size, so a custom cutter would need to be found/made to make the right size cutout. I will definitely look into this though.

Thanks, TA

[5ontarget]

Nice work TA!
You have some skills. Not to mention more courage than I. I'm too chicken to try mods like checkering.

I did know a guy that used to do inlays, and button/medallion inserts. He was able to do most of it with his drill press, and a whole collection of bits/chisel points, plug cutters. For the pieces that were angled he eventually made a set of jigs, which were really nothing more than long shims with marks on them for his various projects. The marks coresponded to making the inlay or button level with the surface of the piece. Of course sometime this method didn't work, and it was long tedious work by hand.
Don't tell, but he's also backfilled a couple holes with filler to make it work.

["DoubleAction"]

ta said:

DA,

I was actually thinking about doing medallions. From what I have heard, at least with Wilson, the size of the medallion is not a standard size, so a custom cutter would need to be found/made to make the right size cutout. I will definitely look into this though.

Thanks, TA

TA; I have some Wilson Combat medallions I can compare to the Colt; They look close but the Wilsons are flat on the grip side to be mounted with an adhesive.
I just got back from my gun room, took out some Wilson medallions, put one over various Colt medallions from various grip manufacturers, and the Wilson appears to be the same diameter as the Colt.

[TBT]

Jesus that looks good man!

So how much do you charge and who should I send the gun to? ;D

[TA]

It won't cost you any cash except shipping. Just send me your gun and I'll keep it as payment. ;D

You won't find that offer just anywhere.

Thanks for the compliment TBT.

[TBT]

Lol ...

How do you do that brushed stainless look? What all is involved in that? I would love to give something like that a whirl.

[TA]

1st you need to detail strip the frame. You do need to remove the plunger tube, so you need a means of re-staking the old one or stake on a new one. Most smiths will charge around $15 to stake one on for you. I used a 4" bench belt sander. Around 220 grit belt would work well. You can experiment to see what you like. Even a piece of aluminum as a test piece will give you an idea. I think it is also good to break a new belt in to knock off the high spots. Then sand a little and check your progress often. Don't forget to do the mag release too. I just set it in without locking it in place and applied a little pressure.

You want to remove as little material as you can. After I checkered my front strap and bead blasted, I had some marks that I wanted to get rid of, so I did mine again. The serial number and logo faded a bit, but it is still there.

It really is an easy way to give your pistol a nice look. You just have to go carefully.

["DoubleAction"]

ta said:

1st you need to detail strip the frame. You do need to remove the plunger tube, so you need a means of re-staking the old one or stake on a new one. Most smiths will charge around $15 to stake one on for you.

The very first item I ever ordered from Brownell's was their Plunger Tube Crimper set. I saw it advertized in the back section of a gun periodical, and after having one of my 1911s go in for a loose tube, having to leave it overnight, and not mentioniong having to pay almost $30 dollars; I found it was what I could use in the future.
I paid $37. dollars for mine but that was some years ago; I noticed they have gone up alot in price. Irregardless; I think it's a good tool to have along with an extra tip. Several things will cause the plunger tube to become loose and eventually fall out if the grip does not ride over it.

["DoubleAction"]

I forgot to post the link:
www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=909&title=1911+AUTO+PLUNGER+TUBE+CRIMPER

[TA]

How well do you like that tool DA? I ended up getting the one that clamps on to the frame and you tighten a bolt into the tubes on the plunger tube. I notice Brownells doesn't carry it anymore.

["DoubleAction"]

TA; I like this tool because it works. Brownell's has been carrying this tool for quite a few years, long before I began doing business with them.
This tool has the outer steel block that forms over the tube to apply pressure in retaining the tube while being attached to the frame. It also has the rod which fill's the tube in preventing the tube from being malformed. The jaws of the vise grips are made with a flat side, which presses against the block, and the side with the tip to spred the stake. You need only to apply enough pressure by adjusting the jaws to spred the stake. The tips are replacable for those doing alot of these jobs.
Back when I bought mine the price was such that the tool paid for itself after the first use.
I wonder if someone might have one on ebay ?

[TBT]

Maybe I better not ... I don't even know what I plunger tube is. ha ...

[TMan]

tbt said:

Maybe I better not ... I don't even know what I plunger tube is. ha ...

Don't feel bad, I didn't either until Doubleaction explained it to me. It is that tube on the left side of the frame that holds the spring and plungers for the safety and take-down lever.