Gun Kote Type Finishes in a Can

[XavierBreath]

Has anyone tried the Teflon/Moly Oven Cure, Gun Finish from Brownell's? How easy is it to get a good even coat? How durable is it?

I'm thinking about it as a finish for the Project Sistema. www.geocities.com/xavierbreath2/projectsistema.html Right now I'm thinking Olive Drab frame with Dark Grey Parkerized slide and small parts ala Wilson Combat.


Just how good or bad is this stuff, and what type of surface prep does it require? Would a sanding of the frame suffice to provide enough tooth?




Here is a quick synopsis from Brownell's site. "Now you can apply a great-looking coating with the increased durability and friction-fighting properties of both TEFLON* fluoropolymer resin and molybdenum disulfide to any firearm or metal part in as little as 2 hours. This is not just another spray paint. Brownells TEFLON/Moly Gun Finish is an ultra-modern, thermo-set, spray-on, self-lubricating coating, chemically bonded to a phenolic-epoxy base so it's highly resistant to scratches and abrasion. Because the finish is baked on, you get some extra benefits. When the metal heats, its pores open up, allowing the TEFLON component to penetrate. On high-wear areas, like slide rails, this is vital. The coating will eventually wear away but the TEFLON will still be in the pores, lubricating and protecting. The beautiful, dense colors won't lighten, dissolve or break down under all common gun solvents. Plus, one application makes any properly prepared metal almost impervious to oxidation. This great-looking, high-tech coating can be easily applied to any part in only minutes. The convenient, aerosol can, with its versatile cone-shaped spray, is so easy to use it's almost mistake-proof. Just degrease and abrasive-blast the part; pre-heat the part 'til it's warm to the touch, then spray on Brownells TEFLON/Moly Gun Finish; let air dry. In about 15 minutes, bake in a regular kitchen oven at 350° F. for 30 minutes. As soon as the part cools, it's completely protected from rust and ready for final assembly. Brownells TEFLON/Moly Gun Finish is perfect for restoring Military rifles and parts; coating hard-to-blue, stainless steel or aluminum parts; refurbishing hunting shotguns, rifles and self-defense handguns, or refinishing any piece of metal that needs a durable, self-lubricating, rust-proof coating that really lasts and will look great for years to come. Great "hiding" ability makes it a natural for quickly redoing those dinged and pitted working guns (after you get the rust out of the pits, of course). Use as a one-coat finish, or spray on several fine, thin coats and then bake. Extremely economical, one can will fully coat up to two long guns or four handguns!"


www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1145&title=TEFLON%2fMOLY+OVEN+CURE%2c+GUN+FINISH&s=4089#4089

[Mikolev]

Very interesting product. I would want to know, do you have to strip what ever finish is on your gun, before you put this stuff on it? That would be the catch.

[Mountaineer]

XavierBreath, Let us know what you get and how it works. I have a Norinco 1911 .45Acp that I want to put a new finish on, and I've also checked in to those finish's in a can from Brownell's.

["DoubleAction"]

I have been looking at the very same Brownell's coating for doing my beavertail grip safeties on my blued Colts. I think it is worth, at least, trying because of the costs involved with other options. The idea of oven curing a coating makes more sense than one involving the old cold blue method. Bonding the coating to a glass beaded surface will reassure it's adhesion also. I use acetone to remove any, and all, traces of oil and grease in the grain and pores of the metal.
These coatings will fill in alot of the pistol's original roll stamping, and it would not hurt to apply a thin coat to the pins if they can accomodate more on the fit.

[XavierBreath]

OK, my next question is how best to remove the parkerizing. A friend suggested muiratic acid. The serial numbers are rather faint on the frame of the Sistema, and I do not want to ruin them with a sandblaster, or make them even a bit more shallow with the same due to the risk of the Gun Kote obscuring them.

["DoubleAction"]

Xavier; I would be careful to use a cleaner & rust - blue remover that will not attack the metal. Brownell's has several cleaners available , One is called Brownell's Rust and Blue remover, which costs $16.95 per quart, item # 082-054-032.