Detail Stripping a 1911

[TBT]

And why does it come apart so easy doing it out of order? If the thumb safety engagment to the sear is too tight, why wouldn't it be too tight doing it the other way as well?

["DoubleAction"]

TBT; Seems if the Thumb Safety goes in, with everything else in place, it should also come out with no problem. If something is binding, preventing the locking slot of the safety from clearing during removal, you should be able to see this with the frame assembled with the grip safety removed.

I have some parts which go on much easier than they come off, and vice versa. Be it that of a Thumb Safety, Mainspring Housing, or any other part on a handgun; Some parts will react differently from one gun to the next when being pressed into position or removed.

I have a Mainspring Housing on one Colt which requires me to gently pry it out of it's seated position during disassembly, but it goes back on with no problem. The Thumb Safeties are usually no problem after they have been properly fitted, along with the grip safety.

Another reason for checking the Thumb Safety out, with the grip safety and plunger removed, would be if the Thumb Safety Bar was binding with the Grip Safety. If everything seems better with the grip safety removed, try taking the thumb safety bar, pushing it through the grip safety hole while checking for any tight gritty fit between the two while having both parts removed from the frame.

Many months before acquiring any Wilson Combat pistols, I was doing detail cleaning jobs for other people on the Wilsons. One thing I noticed was the very smooth fit of the parts on these pistols; This made detail disassembly and assembly much different than that of some other pistols I had cleaned.

The same thing can be said of any pistol, and should be, if it is designed to be easily disassembled and assembled. I avoid at all costs in using any force in the removable of any part, unless it is designed as such. I have a couple of barrel bushings which require a long handled bushing wrench because they were fittted to very close lockup tolerances with the slide. Field stripping such a pistol, with such bushings would make Field Stripping difficult without such a wrench.

Most manufacturers recommends against detailed disassembly for more reasons than liability issues, especially when the parts are pressed into position by production assemblers, rather than skilled fitters. On the flip side of the coin I have seen one manufacturer, I'm not calling out any names, who provides a detailed diassembly Video and Manuel with their pistols.

[TBT]

DA; Check this out here and let me know what you think. I was doing some research and I found a tutoral on detail stripping a Kimber Series II that matches to the "T" what I have to do with this Smith and Wesson.

www.kerensky.net/pics/series2/

["DoubleAction"]

TBT; I noticed the author did not follow in the same order during assembly, which he disassembled the frame, regarding the Thumb Safety and Mainspring Housing.

In order for the sear to be properly positioned in the Cocked Position with the hammer, the Sear Spring should be under tension. Removing the Mainspring Housing first might work alright if the sear spring is kept in position after the Mainspring Housing is removed. However, the Hammer strut will no longer be under pressure from the Mainspring, once the Mainspring Housing is removed.

The one advantage I see in removing the Mainspring Housing first is removing the risk of the Hammer Dropping without the slide installed, during the disassembly of the Frame.

I looked at the Sear, Disconnector, Mainspring Housing, Grip Safety, and the firing block lifter arm (Which is mounted on the right side of the frame) on his Kimber , and I see nothing which would prevent the removal of the Thumb Safety first.

I've detailed stripped some Kimbers and admit that they are very close fitted pistols, however, I followed the same procedures with that as the Colts and Wilsons when disassembling.

I have seen another instructional manuel from Wilson Combat, which illustrates the removal of the Mainspring Housing prior to the Thumb safety. I also noticed the applied pressure on the grip safety until the Thumb Safety is removed.

TBT; The method and procedures I use for disassembling the frame is followed in regards to illustrations on the M1911 and M1911A1.

I looked through a few of my books to find variances on these procedures from other authors. In Patrick Sweeney's gun digest book on the 1911, he removes the Thumb Safety first and gives attention in preventing the hammer from dropping. The AGI Armoror's Video on the 1911 also illustrates the removal of the Thumb safety first.

We have seen two different procedures from various sources, and both seems to work easier for those who prefer that particular method for disassembling the frame.

I could successfully use either procedure, however I prefer one method.

I hope you can now proceed in learning much more about your pistol, the 1911 is a good pistol for this.

Form a habit of gently lowering the hammer prior to dropping the Mainspring Housing and Maintain pressure on the Grip Safety after the MSH is removed, until you remove the Thumb Safety.

[TBT]

SO you think this is just another way to do it and there might not be anything wrong with my pistol?

["DoubleAction"]

TBT; According to some, removing the Mainspring Housing before the Thumb Safety is another procedure for diassembling the frame. If you prefer this method, which seems to be easier with your pistol, I urge you to maintain pressure on the grip safety until removing the Thumb Safety. This prevents the sear spring from becoming unseated. I also strongly urge you in remembering to lower the hammer before dropping the Mainspring Housing. This will prevent the the sear spring from popping out when the Mainspring Housing is released under tension.
In answering you question; This is another method for disassembling the frame and your pistol should disassemble using either method. You should be able to remove the Thumb Safety before the Mainspring Housing on your pistol. I've disassembled Colts, Springfields, Kimbers, Llamas, and Wilson Combat pistols by removing the Thumb Safety first; I see nothing in it's design which would prevent your S&W from being disassembled in the same sequence.
I think it's just a tight fit with the Thumb Safety.

[TBT]

Thanks DA.

What do you think of the possibility of my having Tripp Research hard chrome my fire controls for this pistol as opposed to getting new equipment when I know the old ones work well enough? Tripp will do each part for $6.00 so its a good bit cheaper than replacing the parts. Will the hard chrome add too much girth to some already tight fitting parts though?

["DoubleAction"]

TBT; The Hard Chrome plating surface should not affect the grip safety, thumb safety, or slide stop. However; By adding any more surface to the thumb safety bar, which locks and pivots the grip safety in the frame, I would suspect this to be an area where something will have to give. The thumb safety bar is sometimes very snugg in fit, which might need relieving either before or after the plating.
It is a funny thing that your thumb safety will only come out after the mainspring housing is removed. I'm still wondering about the possiblity of the thumb safety bar binding in the grip safety hole, when the mainspring housing has the grip safety positioned. Next time you have the thumb safety out, try putting a small film of lube on the thumb safety bar going into the frame and grip safety.

[TBT]

By thumb safety bar your talking about the back pin-type thing that goes through the frame and works with the sear etc. correct? I could instruct Tripps to not cote this part of the thumb safety right? Or does that process require them to do an entire part or something?

I'm going to try lubing on the bar next time I have it apart. Will regular ol' Hoppes work or are you talking more of a grease?

["DoubleAction"]

TBT; Try a small amount of grease, it won't likely run like oil will.

[TBT]

I don't own any gun grease. Can you recommend a brand?

["DoubleAction"]

TBT; I've used various gun grease products in the past, including, Wilson Combat ( Ultimalube Grease ), Birchwood Casey, Pro Shot, and Brownell's Action Lube.

[MLB]

I've been using Militec-1 for a while. I like it.
www.militec-1.com/

I think it was Callahan that mentioned that you can get a free sample for the asking. That was a long time ago though.

[TMan]

I've tried several before settling on Wilson Combat's. It comes in a syringe too, which make it easy to apply into tight places.

Shameless plug: I've never gotten anything from Wilson Combat that I've been dissatisfied with.

[Callahan]

mlb said:

I've been using Militec-1 for a while. I like it.
www.militec-1.com/

I think it was Callahan that mentioned that you can get a free sample for the asking. That was a long time ago though.

Looks like now that's only available to cops and guvment employees.

["DoubleAction"]

I'm not going to advise someone to polish a part in order to accomodate a smoother fitting surface; I will however suggest attempting to use a lubrcant first.

[TBT]

What about polishing the part and then lubing it? Lol ... best of both worlds eh? Now if I only knew how to polish a part ... ha.

I think this thread might end up being one heck of a resource DA. I think I've asked every quesion in the book and you have answered it. Next person that wants to know this might need only to view this thread.

["DoubleAction"]

I like to sometimes refer to polishing a part in terms of smoothing it's surface in order to work against the metal surface of another part with less friction. With the Grip Safety Bar, it works as a lock and pivot for the grip safety. The smoothness of the engagement between the two might only be noticeable when trying to install or remove the grip safety.
I always prefer to use some lubricant on moving parts, with a fair amount of judgement being placed on the exposure to dusty conditions or conditions where the lubricant might attract dirt or other foreign matter.
This is one thing I look for when disassembling and reassembling all 1911s, whether it is the first time or one I've had for many years. If a pistol is operating smooth, I want to continue maintaining the same smoothness of operation. If it is not smooth, but rather gritty, whether through shooting, disassembly, assembly, or dry firing, I will try to find out why.

[TBT]

Good info DA, as always.